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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone.

Finally managed to get all my photos from my phone onto my computer so I can start this thread.
Quite a bit has already happened, but I'll make posts for them in order they happened as if I was making progress over time so its not a big giant post of confusing photos everywhere.

Quick backstory.
Saw a blue VT at a local small car lot in town and decided to see about trading my 2012 NAv in on it.
And of course I should of listened to the warnings from the local Carolina Raptors of the 2013 VT..
because, well you will see soon.

Anyhow, here's the mod list and coming soon list and a few pictures of the car itself.

2013 Marathon Blue Veloster Turbo Auto
Mods;
Underhood appearance;
*Mild wire tuck
*Shaved valve cover

Performance-
*2016 Motor(I guess it's a "Mod"?)
*CNT Racing 2.5" hot pipe
*custom 3" intake
*3" catless downpipe
*Flowmaster series 10 muffler replacing resonator
*Straight piped from flowmaster to tips.
*REV 75a (race) torque mount bushings
*Throttlebody/Intake manifold coolant bypass
*Oil catch can
*MAC blow off valve solenoid
*Turboxs blow off valve

Suspension-
*Godspeed lowering springs

Interior-
*Glowshift boost gauge mounted to mirror sail on door

Exterior-
*Yellow LED foglight bulbs
*H11 swap from H11B
*Tail lights/bumper/3rd brake lights tinted

Future;
*Engine bay ground wire upgrade
*Cold pipe upgrade
*Tune
*Rear torsion bar
*Front strut bar
*Rear trunk bar(upper chassis brace)
*Whiteline Front Control Arm Lower Inner Front Bushing Kit
More I'm sure will come as well

current exterior;
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Underhood
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Traded my 2012 NAv for this 2013 VT, despite the warnings of fellow Veloster owners.
More on that later...
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(You can see my former red NAv in the background below).
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After signing some papers, I drove it home.
On my way home a chicken ran out in the road and attacked my new car,
cracked the bumper and knocked the fog light bezel out of position.
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sigh the joys of living in a country town.
managed to line the broken pieces up and get it 'fixed'.
Later down the road I fixed the fog light bezel issue as well.
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Cleaned up the fairly nasty engine bay real quick.
Before;
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After;
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After driving it for a few days I couldn't figure out where this absolutely horrific stench was coming from inside the car. found out it was the cabin air filter(never owned a car with one).
Needless to say, it was NASTY.
Oh if you don't know where this is, and you have a horrible stench in your car.
Remove the two small knobs on either side inside the glove box, it'll pop down and you'll find a little door and behind this door is a filter.
Hopefully yours doesn't look like this;
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At the same time I removed the broken speaker cap that seems to pop off of these cars all the time(My NAv had two pop out), this was on the passenger front door.
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So if you have a rattle in a speaker, and it sounds like its blown.
Good chance it's a easy fix, just remove the door card and let it fall out.


During the test drive(before I traded in for it) it had a bad misfire under load, which he 'fixed' before I got it and drove great for about 24 hours.
then the misfire came back.
Using Torque on my phone I was able to track the misfire to a coilpack, 5 days and a new pack later she ran like a dream...
foreshadowing FoR NoW
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
About three weeks after I got the VT, I ordered my first three upgrades;
REV 75a torque mount bushings, a Amazon $15 Mishimoto oil catch can knock off and the TurboXS BOV.

The oil catch can came the same day as the BOV, but I lacked the hoses so I installed the BOV only right now.
But the OCC was very nice, I was pleasantly surprised.
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More on this later on in the thread(short response, works great!)

Installed the bushings in the torque mount.
before and after
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Installation is very simple, although can be a PITA.
The mount itself is held in with two 14mm bolts and a 17mm bolt with a 17mm nut.
Once the mount is off, there is a 14mm bolt going through the mount holding the bushings.
Take this off, DO NOT LOOSE the captive nut piece.
I had to use a box cutter and lots and lots of soapy water to get this to fit.
Then had to use large clamps to squeeze the bushings and metal end piece together enough so that the bolt would thread.
(Also installed photo is on my NAv, but it is EXACTLY the same as in a VT).

So next I went about installing the BOV.
This was very simple.
Did not even have to pull bumper completely off.
Just remove;
*two 10mm screws under the bumper sides where they meet the fender.
*four 10mm bolts on top of bumper/radiator shroud
*two phillips plastic press in clips
Then carefully pull the edges of the bumper away from fender, they are also connected under the headlights.
Then it will slide down enough to access the OEM bypass valve.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOV BOLTS!!!!!!
I over tightened by hand, and ripped several threads out of the intercooler.
Luckily I had a bolt that was longer and was able to thread in further down.

But man what a difference, wish I took pictures of the old OEM BPV inside, it was cracked and obviously leaking boost.
before and after
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However.. this was also the beginning of the end.
The next night leaving work I was pulling out of the parking lot into the line of cars leaving and.. BOOM.
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The 2013 curse hit.

At this point, after only having the car for 3 weeks(to the day) I wasn't sure what to do.
I contacted the lot I bought it from, he was a great guy and had the car towed to my house.
Called the car loan people and they politely told me I was SOL.

So a week or two later I finally found a place to give me a small personal loan to order a new motor.
And had some left over to get a few upgrades while I was there.
More on this next time.




On a side note, I'm thinking the upgrading of the BOV was somehow the fuse that set off the bomb.
As it had no issues whatsoever up till this point.
24 hours after installing, the motor blew up.
Coincidence maybe, but I'm thinking the worn and leaking OEM bpv was keeping the motor from reaching full boost and thus saving it.

irony at its best.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Well, after getting the loan I immediately ordered a low mileage 2016 motor with turbo I'd been watching while the loan was being processed.

Also ordered a engine hoist, so I could do the work myself.
While I was waiting for the hoist, and new motor I started the prep work to pull it out.

I decided in the end to just remove the whole front end.
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Then out it came
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A lot of the work was done over about 2 weeks, but all in all it took about a weekend of work from start to finish.

The absolutely hardest part of this whole ordeal was the removal of the 19mm turbo elbow to downpipe.
Yes, it would of been easier to get it from below but I did not have the car up high enough to crawl underneath, on top of my gravel car port... I took the hard way.


While I was waiting on the hoist, I started prep work for the wire tuck I planned.
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Cut up the larger harness/es so I could rerun all the wiring around the old motor, so when the new motor was installed it would be a much easier process to finish it all.



Oh.
When I first took off the passenger wheel to get access to the turbo bolts and what not, found this...
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But of course, I'm sure you all are wanting to see the carnage.
Here ya go;
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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Shortly after the new motor arrived I began the job of cleaning it and doing a little paint work on the head and block, pretty much just areas you would see while in the engine bay.
Didn't go crazy on masking, just masked off the vacuum lines, fuel lines and any openings that don't need paint inside of them gunking up stuff.
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I removed the new motors clutch and flywheel, replaced it with my flex plate.
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Then installed the CNT HP(more on this later), swapped over parts off the old motor that weren't included such as; Alternator, AC compressor, Idler pulley, etc

I did buy and have ARP studs to replace the turbo elbow studs, however the middle exhaust manifold nut was rounded off so I couldn't take off the manifold, and I could only comfortably remove one of the 3 studs.
And I did not want to snap a stud while I couldn't easily remove the turbo to fix it...
So the OEM elblow stayed.

Also had to keep the 2013 style coilpacks as the 2016 coils are different.
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Now, I did not paint the valve cover as I still do not know what color I want the VC to be.
Plus, I didn't have any gasket maker to seal the VC at the timing cover.


While the motor was out, I pulled the intake manifold for three main reasons.
1) To clean it
2) Bypass the throttle body/manifold coolant lines
3) T into the BOV reservoir tank line for boost guage

Here you can see the bypass hose ran, It is MUCH easier to pull the manifold to do this, but I've seen people say they've done it without removing the intake.
They just leave all the hoses attached to the manifold and run the hose directly from the oil cooler to the coolant outlet pipe.
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If you do want to remove the intake manifold there are quite a few hoses to watch for.
Then 3 bolts and 2 nuts on the manifold at the top of the manifold, as well as a single bolt at the bottom of the manifold(on the side of the starter). I believe these were all 12mm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Oh.
And if anyone did not know, this is the difference between a 2013 and 2016 water pump pulley.
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2013 is larger.
Not sure if they changed in 2014 or 2015, but if you have the larger pulley, might be worth swapping for better cooling.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
So, Hotpipe time

The CNT Racing hotpipe is based off of the MBRP hot pipe.
It goes from the turbo outlet to 2.5" then back to 1.75" at the intercooler.
Compared to the stock, it looks much better.
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But apparently it flows just about the same as the OEM pipe in some flow tests done.
I'm assuming it is because of the bottleneck where it jumps from 2.5" to the OEM 1.75" at the IC.
I did not know this at the time, so I may replace it later down the road with a slightly smaller one.
OR perhaps get a larger inlet pipe on the intercooler to reduce the reduction between the pipe and inter cooler.
But at the time of putting my car back together it was the only option that was ready to ship so I didn't have to install the OEM and deal with it later.

Now, both of these HP's have one flaw.
They don't fit automatic cars without modifications.

It's not terribly hard to do, but to some it may seem like a 'hack job' but it worked fine for me.

Out of the box the HP will rub against the plastic transmission cover, even more so once the rubber coupler is installed.
Fixing this issue is easy however.

Once the rear bracket(nearest firewall) of the HP was mounted and secured to the motor I just used a little elbow grease to reposition the pipe slightly so it no longer made contact.
I believe even just like this, between the bracket and being coupled to the turbo outlet and IC inlet the pipe would be perfectly fine and not cause any issues.

But since I have access to a router at my work, I used some scrap HDPE plastic and made me a spacer for the front bracket to bolt up to the mounting hole.
I don't have a picture of said bracket, but it wouldn't be hard at all to just fabricate one with some scrap metal or anything really.


Here it is mounted up(before I knew about the fitment issue).
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After the 'fix' with just the rear bracket bolted up, it just clears the transmission, and even pushing on it quite firmly it doesn't budge I do not see any risk of it rubbing on the cover.
Now, the brake booster vacuum did make contact at the bottom where the connector plugs into, but again a little finessing and it was easily moved up and away.

It bolted right up to the inter cooler and it hasn't given me any issues.
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now for the heart transplant.

It went smoothly and was surprisingly fast.
After the 30 minutes of swear words and throwing of tools when the motor refused to go all the way back into the engine bay.

At this point is when I realized when installed, the downpipe won't clear the passenger axle.
So I disconnected it at the turbo, slide it in and then reconnected it.
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All the hanging wiring is from the wire tuck, once the motor was bolted in I began running the wires in their new locations.
About an hour of running wires, un-running them and re-running them and I had this.
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Happy with the wire tuck, I began putting the front end back together.
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Oh, and if I forgot to mention this early; I test started the car way before this point lol
After I put on a OEM oil filter and filled it up with oil of course.

I am very happy with the end product.
Yes that stock intake will go one day.
I actually had a Injen intake for it, sort of.
Won a used one for $100 on ebay but the seller screwed me over and never shipped it.
So by the time Paypal refunded me my money the VT was on the road, and I spent the money elsewhere.
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Still undecided on the valve cover color, so it remains unpainted.

And if you don't know what a wire tucked engine bay looks like compared to a VT with just the plastic cover off looks like...
(NOTE: I found this photo on google under "Veloster turbo motor", I do not know who owns this car, so if the owner does not want this photo here just let me know)
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Oh.
I didn't realize until I had everything bolted in that you have to install the A/C hardlines BEFORE the upper motor mount goes back in.
But since it wont be needed for these winter months, I will reinstall it come spring time, at this time I will also be installing a 160 degree thermostat and a higher PSI radiator cap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
After a few weeks of driving, I drained the catch can for the first time.
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Not bad for $15, much better than all junk getting back into the motor.

Next I went about installing my boost gauge.
For the vacuum source I used the vacuum reservoir line under the intake manifold.
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Also, you can see the elbow for the throttle body/manifold which I bypassed for lower IAT temps.

Then the hose runs through the engine bay and goes through the fender(behind it?) and into the stock grommet for the door wiring where it goes from the chassis into the door.
I will take pictures of this eventually if anyone wants to see it.

I got a 'universal' mounting pod for the Glowshift gauge, and mounted it to the sideview mirror sail.
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The wiring and vacuum hose go through this hole, down inside the door and out the before mentioned grommet.
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So here we are.
All caught up.
Only issue after the swap I'm having is a loud ass rattle when in drive with the brake on, IE at a stop sign/light, in drive thru, etc
Pretty sure I used the wrong bolts on the lower torque mount and its rattling.
I'll have to get back under there eventually and swap them out.


Really need to get a decent photoshoot done next pretty day we have.


Not much going on right now because of the Holidays and missing a lot of work because of down time.
But hopefully end of January/Early February I'll be trading the old motor, turbo and some other stuff for some new upgrades and possibly a tune from Quik Tyme Performance.

But time will tell.

Somewhat have decided I am going to do a secondary color theme on the car.
Whatever color I paint the valve cover, I will paint the silver parts of the lip/skirts as well as the wheel inserts the same color.

Stuck between a gold/bronze or a light metallic blue.. Lemme see if I can find the color, I've used it before.
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Aha there it is, on my former Z24.

Opinions on valve cover color?
Other options is just silver.


Oh, got my KDM registration number.
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So that's it for now.

Looking forward to getting some more mods/upgrades done in the near future.

Only real issue I need to deal with right now is none of the right side steering wheel buttons work.
Not sure why, they all suddenly stopped working and the airbag light came on.
Hopefully an easy fix.

Considering tinting the tail lights and the reflectors as I have nightshade paint laying around, not sure yet though.



Thanks for reading.
Comments/suggestions welcome.
 

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So good to see a fellow LD9 owner on the forums. ??
I miss those days.

Good to see you not giving up on this.
You'll be pleasantly pleased with this platform and all the capabilities that it has to be a real performance car.
If you've been keeping up with the aftermarket you'll see a sleeved fully built engine is capable of 700hp and way more aftermarket available than our Z cars ever had.

Not sure what plans you have for this ride but I'll be putting in a follow to keep track of your progress.

Btw seeing that 2.4 picture you posted brought back a lot of fond memories in the heyday of the sport compact era. Such an explosive time for the sport compact industry that was the precursor to our current performance boom we see today.

Good luck. ???
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So good to see a fellow LD9 owner on the forums. ??
I miss those days...

...Not sure what plans you have for this ride but I'll be putting in a follow to keep track of your progress.
I don't plan on going beyond bolt ons and a tune for the motor, just want a fun daily driver and something to have fun on these backwoods western NC roads.

Most of the upgrades will be in suspension to make it handle better.
Especially the back end, as its quite wobbly in corners in its stock form.
 

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A rear torsion bar will help and a good set of coilovers like the DGR series or some BCRACING coilovers.

Good plans and gotta love the country back roads for some enjoyable driving. ?
 

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Good example of how to kick off a build thread: details and pics. It also looks like you are doing some foundational mods, so that's nice to see.

Thanks for downsizing your pics; Tapatalk no longer crashes when viewing this thread.

XD
 

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nice work with swapping the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good example of how to kick off a build thread: details and pics. It also looks like you are doing some foundational mods, so that's nice to see.

Thanks for downsizing your pics; Tapatalk no longer crashes when viewing this thread.

XD
I'm sorry again for the trouble, I think I got everything fixed.
Also added some more details here and there for anyone needing some help.
 

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Make sure you call Hyundai corporate to get compensation for the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's me :)
Do you want me to take your picture down, or is it okay?
I didn't mean any disrespect by using your car as a "before" photo.


Got the new yellow LED fog light bulbs in.
Way brighter than I expected.
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Even better at night time.
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On a downside, I believe my down pipe nuts are coming loose, as I hear a faint exhaust leak under the hood.
Guess I need to borrow some ramps so I can get it high enough to get to the nuts, and still need to swap out the lower motor mount bolts out so it stops knocking while sitting at lights lol


Warm weather where are you?


Also, is there anyway to deal with the gap between the bumper and hood?
 
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