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I agree with X.... first thing is to limit the threat of LSPI.... catch cans, also Cerma and using a quality motor oil. Mods don't always have to increase performance.
 

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For me the car was just unbearable to drive hopping all over the place so the bars/Collars were a must have and delivered.

As for the CC and the Fuel Line. My car will never see either as it's a lease, not mine, and refuse to potentially void the warranty. As of now something happens, line pinches, it goes lean and windows the block not my problem, pulls so much timing out of it's ass because the pipes, IC, IM are riddled with oil, not my problem replace em.

They can come get it and bring me a loaner

Sorry not sorry I have no love for the second owner. :crazy:



But for those planning to keep the car a long time yes do the above as X said
 

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Great, thanks Professor S! I skimmed through this thread and I don't think I saw Oil Catch Cans mentioned. I've read posts about them on other website and folks, especially with GDI engines, seem to think they are incredibly important to add as soon as possible. Any thoughts? If you agree, any particular brands better than others? I'm sure the Mishimoto ones are of high quality, but I've seen a couple other brands out there that are a little cheaper. Cheaper is good, but I don't want to sacrifice their ability to do their job.
There are numerous threads debating various OCCs, setups, etc. that can be found by Google searching "veloster turbo oil catch can"; you'll get hits to threads on this forum (and others). The search feature that the form uses is kinda crappy, but Google will serve you well.

I would argue that, based on the wealth of knowledge on this forum and my personal experiences, that an OCC setup is quite possibly the best choice for your first mod. The earlier you get it done, the more gunk you are preventing from getting caked onto the various components of your drivetrain. My VT is at around 1,800 miles and I can clearly see oil around the seal securing the breather tube to the intake. I only drive aggressively maybe once a week, and I've only taken it to red-line three times. The blow-by is real, even without any performance bolt-ons.

Things change over time. When this thread was created, we didn't know anything about LSPI.

Catch cans would now definitely be in the top three must-do mods, but there are so many...

Again, I chose my first mods based on flaws I noticed right away; engine/trans banging on hard launch (lower mount bushings) and wandering steering (rigid collars).

IMO stabilize the car, keep oil out of the intake tract and replace the fuel line with a stainless PTFE line before adding power enhancers.

Stainless PTFE line is up there on the list now due to the failures across all model years, along with Hyundai's unwillingness to expand their TSB campaign and turning people away. The replacement OEM lines are just as bad.
I agree with -X- here; the VT is an amazing car for the price, but there are some issues that these forum members have noticed (and corrected!) that should be addressed before adding more power. My next planned mod is the fuel line (think I'm going with Tork on this one), and I will then move on to the suspension.

@swordfish: Thanks for clearing that up; great metaphor btw. Butt dyno is the most important one for a daily driver anyway IMO. ;P
 

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Does anybody know where someone can purchase a rear torsion bar in Canada? I read Pierce is the best, but I don't know if they ship to Canada and even if they do I'll get nailed for duty, tax, and exchange rate. I don't want take it up the rear. I already get that feeling when I drive over rough roads. I won't mind settling for a lesser quality (but not crap) bar.
 

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Does anybody know where someone can purchase a rear torsion bar in Canada? I read Pierce is the best, but I don't know if they ship to Canada and even if they do I'll get nailed for duty, tax, and exchange rate. I don't want take it up the rear. I already get that feeling when I drive over rough roads. I won't mind settling for a lesser quality (but not crap) bar.
Pierce has shipped a few things to me in Australia (including torsion bars). Since he is rather close to a shipito.com warehouse he usually just hand delivers the products to them, then shipito contact me that I have a product to be sent, and I organise shipping. Since you fill out your own customs declaration you can devalue the cost if you want ;) Shipito rates are rather good also. The parcel containing a front sway bar and rear torsion bar cost $105.58 via TNT Express
 

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Pierce has shipped a few things to me in Australia (including torsion bars). Since he is rather close to a shipito.com warehouse he usually just hand delivers the products to them, then shipito contact me that I have a product to be sent, and I organise shipping. Since you fill out your own customs declaration you can devalue the cost if you want ;) Shipito rates are rather good also. The parcel containing a front sway bar and rear torsion bar cost $105.58 via TNT Express
Thanks for the info!
 

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Prices have gone up (shocker) in the 1 year since this was originally posted.

Pierce Motorsports Rear Torsion bar was $155.00 now $169 on sale.

Whiteline Rear Torsion Bar was $135.00 now $200.
 

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For me the car was just unbearable to drive hopping all over the place so the bars/Collars were a must have and delivered.

As for the CC and the Fuel Line. My car will never see either as it's a lease, not mine, and refuse to potentially void the warranty. As of now something happens, line pinches, it goes lean and windows the block not my problem, pulls so much timing out of it's ass because the pipes, IC, IM are riddled with oil, not my problem replace em.

They can come get it and bring me a loaner

Sorry not sorry I have no love for the second owner. :crazy:



But for those planning to keep the car a long time yes do the above as X said
Amen. Drive it like you stole it and give it back in 3 years...not your problem. If you own the car, it's hard to have as much fun with it.
 

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I'm going the other route, Had it Tuned, Professionally first. THEN make adjustments as needed. I just figured she was just shaking & wiggling her rear for me, that was all. "I hear ya, you sexy animal" :in love:What? I can't be the only one...
 

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the first thing i can suggest to someone who gets a veloster or forte turbo isnt really a mod... but to put it in their mind to use 92 or 93 octane.... to me the car runs so much better when using premium... maybe its because im in a warmer climate and with the higher octane the ecu doesnt pull as much timing... but it just seems to run better to me

 

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Hey All,

can I check, is there a different list for Aussie delivered VT's? - I believe they have a different tunning for their suspension?

I must admit, under 100kms (60miles) heavy breaking still feels firm and safe even on poor road conditions but faster than that it gets grim and fast lol

also, side comment to the above post by Honhon, is 92-93 octane fuel premium in the US? for us 98 is premium and the car fuel sticker states do not use below 95... curious what other differences between US and AU delivery VT's
 

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is 92-93 octane fuel premium in the US? for us 98 is premium and the car fuel sticker states do not use below 95... curious what other differences between US and AU delivery VT's
NZ and AU use the RON system, while the US uses R+M/2, which gives a lower number.

As far as I can tell, the NZ 98 is about the same or slightly higher than the 93 octane from the States.
 

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I hate running the car on regular gas, it just seems to have to try much harder to get up steep grades. Up a hill on regular the car seems to huff and puff and it just sounds and feels rough. Up that same hill on premium the engine delivers a smooth range of power and you just fly. Driving from Delaware to Key West in a few weeks I may just run it on 89 for the long highway trips since I want to save a little money, but day in day out I run 91 and above.
 

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I hate running the car on regular gas, it just seems to have to try much harder to get up steep grades. Up a hill on regular the car seems to huff and puff and it just sounds and feels rough. Up that same hill on premium the engine delivers a smooth range of power and you just fly. Driving from Delaware to Key West in a few weeks I may just run it on 89 for the long highway trips since I want to save a little money, but day in day out I run 91 and above.
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It's really crazy how much of a gap there is between regular and premium here. It's as much as 80 cents more expensive right now at stations by me.
 
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