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2 Posts
So for a few months I've been stuck with this issue. I drive a 2015 Veloster Turbo. Currently 90k miles on it. I don't think that matters, but it might. About a month or two ago, while I would be driving the car would lurch a bit before the tachometer would hit 0 and it would feel like my turbo just turned off, basically no acceleration with my foot all the way to the floor. Come to find out this is Limp Mode, something I'm sure most people on this forum are aware of. After going into limp mode, if I were to say turn the car off, go into a store, and come back out while the car is still warm and try to start it, it would take about 2 or 3 times as long start and would go straight into limp mode, though it has started every single time so far. If I left the car for a few hours and it would cool down, it would start like normal, drive like normal, and after about 10 minutes would go into limp mode.
I wasn't sure what was causing the issue, did some research. Found that it could be one of many things, the most obvious one being a malfunctioning Crankshaft Position Sensor. Sure enough, right after I look this up, my car finally pops a code. P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit A. Oh, easy fix. I replace the sensor. Car runs for 10 minutes before struggling and dropping back into limp mode. Pops the same code. I put the old sensor back in, starts fine, 10 minutes, limp mode. I figure maybe there's a bad connection between the sensor connector and the car connector. I start by bending pins slightly diagonally to try and force a stronger connection, drives for 10 minutes, limp mode. I then bought a new connector on the car side (since that was the female side of the two connectors), replaced it. Car starts fine, drives for 10 minutes, limp mode. I then figure maybe there's a break somewhere in the harness between the sensor and the ECU. I check continuity, continuous. I check resistance, consistent between each other. I check resistance on a separate Veloster Turbo with no issues, the resistance is the exact same. Technically this car should be running fine from what I have found up to now.
My father has a million connections in and around our area, many of them related to cars since he's really into them. He asked a buddy of his that makes his career on fixing electronics and harness type things on cars, he says it sounds like an ECU problem (He can't personally take a look since he's booked with work for the next 5 months). I take it to a shop owned by a guy my dad is friends with. Plugs in his fancy wireless Snap-On OBD reader, and after a few minutes says if its not an electrical issue (circuit/wires wise) it's most likely an ECU issue. I figured if I need to replace the ECU, I might as well either send it in to have a basic tune or buy a pre-tuned ECU since those were my plans for the car anyway, and if the current ECU is borked, no reason to replace it with stock and then get it tuned later. So I pick a tuner who deals with Velosters, and ask for their input. I'm an overthinker, so instead of just buying an ECU impulsively, I wanted to get their opinion. Message them, explain my situation. I receive a response telling me that this is not an ECU issue, and that I need to take my car to "a good Hyundai shop" to have it looked at. I kind of follow his advice and take it to a local shop that works on imports and has had many good reviews, both online and from people I know as well as my father knows. I explain the situation to them, and ask them for a diagnostic. They take a look at the car, a technician replaces both ends of the connector between the position sensor and the harness. They tell me the car is good and hand it back. 10 minutes later, I'm back in limp mode.
At this point I was told to contact them again and tell them they didn't fix it. And honestly, I kind of understand why they didn't. As far as I can tell this is a really weird issue, and they really had no reason to keep the car running for 10-20 minutes after the replaced the connector to make sure it didn't go back into limp mode like it has been. But I would much rather keep the car and drive it in limp mode and see what you lovely people on this forum have to say than surrender my car for a few or more days back to a shop that may or may not be able to figure out what's wrong with it. I'm really considering just buying a new ECU and slapping it in, but the logical side of my brain is telling me that it's just better to deal with it a little while longer and ask around to try and find a real answer than to throw $600+ dollars at a solution that may or may not fix the issue.
I wasn't sure what was causing the issue, did some research. Found that it could be one of many things, the most obvious one being a malfunctioning Crankshaft Position Sensor. Sure enough, right after I look this up, my car finally pops a code. P0335: Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit A. Oh, easy fix. I replace the sensor. Car runs for 10 minutes before struggling and dropping back into limp mode. Pops the same code. I put the old sensor back in, starts fine, 10 minutes, limp mode. I figure maybe there's a bad connection between the sensor connector and the car connector. I start by bending pins slightly diagonally to try and force a stronger connection, drives for 10 minutes, limp mode. I then bought a new connector on the car side (since that was the female side of the two connectors), replaced it. Car starts fine, drives for 10 minutes, limp mode. I then figure maybe there's a break somewhere in the harness between the sensor and the ECU. I check continuity, continuous. I check resistance, consistent between each other. I check resistance on a separate Veloster Turbo with no issues, the resistance is the exact same. Technically this car should be running fine from what I have found up to now.
My father has a million connections in and around our area, many of them related to cars since he's really into them. He asked a buddy of his that makes his career on fixing electronics and harness type things on cars, he says it sounds like an ECU problem (He can't personally take a look since he's booked with work for the next 5 months). I take it to a shop owned by a guy my dad is friends with. Plugs in his fancy wireless Snap-On OBD reader, and after a few minutes says if its not an electrical issue (circuit/wires wise) it's most likely an ECU issue. I figured if I need to replace the ECU, I might as well either send it in to have a basic tune or buy a pre-tuned ECU since those were my plans for the car anyway, and if the current ECU is borked, no reason to replace it with stock and then get it tuned later. So I pick a tuner who deals with Velosters, and ask for their input. I'm an overthinker, so instead of just buying an ECU impulsively, I wanted to get their opinion. Message them, explain my situation. I receive a response telling me that this is not an ECU issue, and that I need to take my car to "a good Hyundai shop" to have it looked at. I kind of follow his advice and take it to a local shop that works on imports and has had many good reviews, both online and from people I know as well as my father knows. I explain the situation to them, and ask them for a diagnostic. They take a look at the car, a technician replaces both ends of the connector between the position sensor and the harness. They tell me the car is good and hand it back. 10 minutes later, I'm back in limp mode.
At this point I was told to contact them again and tell them they didn't fix it. And honestly, I kind of understand why they didn't. As far as I can tell this is a really weird issue, and they really had no reason to keep the car running for 10-20 minutes after the replaced the connector to make sure it didn't go back into limp mode like it has been. But I would much rather keep the car and drive it in limp mode and see what you lovely people on this forum have to say than surrender my car for a few or more days back to a shop that may or may not be able to figure out what's wrong with it. I'm really considering just buying a new ECU and slapping it in, but the logical side of my brain is telling me that it's just better to deal with it a little while longer and ask around to try and find a real answer than to throw $600+ dollars at a solution that may or may not fix the issue.
