That's a big question. Tuning a car is a very technical and involved process that requires patience and skill. There are a few people on here who could get you started, but tuning a car effectively is going to take a while. What's the motivation behind tuning your own car rather than working with an established tuner?
Need the cable with the tactrix, pcm flash USB dongle with proper module for the car, may or may not need the universal bench flash cable setup, windows laptop, internet, email. Then for datalog I prefer obdlink LX, torque pro app, and an android device, internet, email. From there choose tuner you want that can remote tune.
I would recommend @trdtoy. I have been working with him for a few weeks and he has successfully built 3 tunes for me. 87 octane, 93 octane and a E85 tune. I am doing a build revision and then getting another tune from him. Save your self the heartache and trouble and give him your money. lol.
Okay, do what you wish, but I've been working with '@trdtoy' for more than a few months, including acquiring a "Mobis" factory ECU,, as well as determining my wants & desires for a 2020 Turbo R-Spec 1.6l. Heavily heat soaked, I ran 239 to 244 whp on 93E10 with moderate external mods - CAI, cat-back, high flow catted downpipe, hks plugs, etc., on a professionally run chassis dyno.
In short, I am super happy with where I am and have now nominally from a Gen 2 R-Spec, the virtual equivalent of a 'Baby Performance N-type' with comparable whp and ca. -50 to 100kg less mass. Total additional cost to date, including brake, alignment & powertrain mods, less than $3k. A 2020 275 SAE HP, 233 whp Performance N would have listed @ ca. $34k+. My out-the-door in Jan 2020 was about $18500 before trade, after dealer & factory discounts. I know the N has some neato-keeno other features. But I learned decades ago to revzmatch on down shifting, for one. 😉
My thoughts? Unless you have in-depth understanding and knowledge of tuning maps; running guess-and-by-golly ECU tune mods is, IMNSHO, kinda scary. Using the equipment plus ancillary needed tech bits (dongle, etc), with professional input is more than OK. There are historically a couple such vendors referenced on the forums.
I have only dealt directly with one tuning vendor, and then not for remote tunes, but rather direct flash retune(s) of stock ecus. @trdtoy has done extremely well by me, providing what I as seeking. But to be fair,there are reputable other people/firms out there, one in Canada, another on west coast, among others.
eh . . . , sorta . . . , mebbe . . . , kinda --- Gen2 R-Spec has torque vectoring, which, if I'm not horribly mistaken, is what a rather expensive Quaife does to a tradition "open differential. For Gen 1, a Quaife TBD was, I believe [correct me if I'm wrong], was the only available means to emulate a true LSD in any Veloster.
I don't know excatly what the N-type uses for its 'e-LSD', but if it is a true clutch-type limited slip, I'd be somewhat surprised. I plowed through a bunch of techno-speak on a couple other forums, but honestly, what ever degree of torque vectoring is built into my differential seems pretty OK for my purposes.
All that said, I have experienced seemingly very good bilateral traction with my 2020 R-Spec, Suspension mod to date is only negative camber dialed in front and more at rear, very minimal front toe-in, and factory toe-in at rear. Turns in nicely, powers out well, with quite neutral steering with rear coming around well, & w/o any significant oversteer. Or at least, that's what my superannuated butt g-meter seems to be telling me.
Mike, Fairborn OH
20 Turbo- R-Spec with a plethora of external bolt-ons
2005 FJR1300A wi/Hannigan SideCar [new 2021]
Thanks for the reply and clarification - I think my inaccuracy was caused by Michael Quaife's own definition of his LSD as an ATB, an Automatic Torque Biasing [Diff]. It's also frequently referred to in various literature pieces interchangeably as both a "Torque Biasing Diff - TBD" & a "torque vectoring diff".
Being a somewhat certified Olde Pharte, and not having reserached the Hyundai-vaunted 'torque vectoring', I prematurely jumped to the conclusion that electronic or not, it emulates a TBD, whether Quaife, Torsen, Wavetrac, or whatever internally, rather than apparently via limited application of the ABS externally.
Interestingly, one article that I scanned after your reply, which specifically looked at fluid clutch-driven LSDs, TBD/TVD, and others, it specifically rated the clutch diff systems as approaching 50/50 power distribution, TBD/TVD's 80/20, eLSD (think N-types) as nearing the clutch types in efficiency, and late-model e-torque verctoring (ABS) [as in Gen2 VT and earlier Fiesta STs ], as better than nothing. The author(s) actually went on to indicate a mix of the e-TVD and a Quaife type is not only compatible, but might be the best solution for a mixed-use daily driver/track day/AX vehicle.
But again, thanks for the clarification, and causing me to research further. Given that I have decided that I'm 98% likely to NOT be doing even limited AutoX or TimeTrial/HPDE/Track Days due to price increases and some sanctioning body requirements, I'd have to weigh options.
N75 and Whitehead Performance in Canada, by the way, both say the same Quaife unit [QDH7B] fits 'almost all' 1.6l 6-spd T-GDIs: Elantra Sport, GT, GT N line; VT1 & VT2; Kia Forte Turbo & Kia Forte GT.
Given that prices for that VT 6-spd Quaife vary all over the marketplace, from vendors also all over the world, ranging from around $1k to over $1600, plus shipping, plus installation, I truly must wonder whether Ohio-WV-PA twisty back roads are worth the additional investment.