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Today I finished the first Production full CAI for Jin and I figured it would be time to do a full write up on the install for all future customers.

The write up will cover both the SRI and CAI install as the CAI is just one extension pipe to locate the filter in the fender well.

First off, Jin opted for the breather fitting to be installed in his intake. You will notice it in the pics that follow.

I also decided to do a bit of polishing on ALL of the intakes that are bought from me. It is far from a perfect polish but looks MUCH MUCH better than the raw piping. The polishing can be seen in the off-the-car pictures. Pictures on the car were before the polishing. This makes the intakes look a lot nicer.

BEFORE YOU GET INTIMIDATED BY THE LENGTH OF THIS DIY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.... Please keep in mind that I try to explain everything to the T for the more in-experienced modders so they do not miss what some of us would consider a 'simple' step or common sense.. This is a very easy mod, I just wanted to cover all the bases so people wouldn't have any reason to mess is up or cause problems for themselves in the future.

Tools Needed:
phillips head screwdriver (preferably a short one)
flat head screwdriver (preferably a short one)
10mm socket
socket wrench
7/16 socket (for the T-bolt clamps)
pliers

Bumper removal (if you are doing the CAI or want to remove the entire system for the SRI) Approximate time: 5-10 minutes. Difficulty: 2 out of 10

1. Start your car and turn the wheel all the way to the left or right. Turn the car off. This provides better access to the 10mm bolt connecting the bumper to the fender in the wheel well.

2. Pop your hood so you can access all of the bolts/push screws holding the bumper on.

3. Use your 10mm socket to remove the four bolts on the top of the bumper cover holding it to the radiator support.

4. Use the phillips head screw driver to take out the two push screws holding the bumper cover to the radiator support.



5. Use your 10mm socket to remove the 2 bolts (one on each side) in the wheel well holding the bumper to the fender.

6. There are six phillips push screws under the bumper. 2 near each side and 2 in the middle. You can jack up the car if you need to but you probably wont to see them. Remove these with the stubby phillips screw driver. Make sure to remove the ones connecting the bumper to the guard and not the little aero lip to the bumper as this will not help in the bumper removal.




7. Pull with mild pressure from where the bumper lines up to the fender on each side. Once each side (up until the headlight) has been freed, pull the bumper forward until it is off the car and set on the ground just in front of the car.

8. Disconnect the fog light harnesses on each side and move the bumper out of the way.


Removing your stock intake system Approximate time: 8-10 minutes. Difficulty: 2 out of 10

Once the bumper is removed, you will have access to remove the entire stock intake system. You don't need to remove the entire thing if you are just doing the SRI but I would recommend doing so as you will probably get better airflow to the filter.

To remove the stock intake system, you will need a 10mm socket, phillips head screwdriver and pliers. Sorry, I do not have any pictures of when I removed the intake system but it is pretty simple.

1. Disconnect the breather hose from the intake and the bypass valve hose using the pliers. Just squeeze the clamps and pull them off.

2. Using the phillips screwdriver, Disconnect the intake pipe from the air box and the turbo elbow (behind the engine). Set aside.



3. Using a combination of the tools, remove the airbox and snorkel/restriction/long ass tubing system. There are a handful of 10mm bolts and some phillips head push screws.



4. Once everything is all removed from the stock intake system you are ready to install your Turbosocks CAI/SRI.

Installing your new, awesome CAI/SRI Approximate time: 15-25 minutes. Difficulty: 3.5 out of 10

The reason I say this is a little more difficult than the bumper removal/intake system removal is because you have to make sure that the pipes are rotated correctly to prevent any issues with rubbing against other parts of the vehicle under engine movement. You will easily be able to tell if you have enough room when assembling the system but you will need to pay attention and tighten everything up to ensure it doesn't rotate when driving.

All pipes are numbered on each end to show you which end goes where. The first pipe is 1-2, second is 3-4 and third/CAI extension is 5-6. This will help in the installation process to know that the pipes are installed the right way.

Make sure you tighten the t-bolt clamps quite tight so that you can't rotate the pipes/couplers by hand. This will ensure the least amount of movement in the CAI/SRI possible under driving/load conditions. If you properly install the CAI, there is plenty of clearance taken into consideration do the pipes wont bump into any hoses or metal while driving.

1. When everything is removed, you will have NO intake system in the car and your engine bay will look like this:



2. The first thing you will do is install the first coupler onto the turbo intake elbow. Slide one of the straight couplers over the intake elbow and tighten it with the 7/16" socket until there is about 1/2" of thread coming through the nut or until you can't rotate the coupler by hand.

3. Slide the other t-bolt clamp over the coupler and insert end #1 into the coupler. Adjust the angle and the pipe so that the edge of the pipe comes very close to the brake fluid reservoir. The engine will never have much, if any side/side movement so you wont have to worry about hitting the brake fluid reservoir. Adjusting the pipe here helps keep it away from the upper radiator hose in the next step. Tighten the t-bolt clamp once the pipe looks like the pictures below.




4. Install the 45 degree coupler over the first pipe. The coupler will be rotated to point slightly towards the drivers side of the car and NOT straight down. This helps avoid any upper radiator contact. Tighten the coupler to the first pipe a little but not enough to where you can't adjust it. You will probably need to adjust it after the next pipe goes on.



5. Put a t-bolt clamp over the other side of the 45 bend coupler and insert pipe #2 (ends 3-4). Obviously insert end #3 into the coupler. Now you can further position the 45 bend coupler and the second pipe. You will want the second pipe angled slightly down towards the opening to the fender well. This will make it much easier to mate up to the CAI extension (if you have the CAI). If you have the SRI, the angle of the second pipe is not as critical. Once you are satisfied with the angle of the second pipe and the clearance from the system to the upper radiator hose (should be around an inch) tighten both T-bolt clamps on the 45 bend coupler so you can't adjust it further.

At this point the intake system should be pretty rigid, considering the couplers. You shouldn't be able to rotate any of the pipes when using moderate force.




5a. (for the SRI guys) Install the filter on pipe #2 (end 4) and you are done. Tighten the clamp with a flathead screwdriver and make sure all the other T-bolt clamps are nice and tight and you are done.

6. Install the filter on pipe #3 (ends 5-6) on the #6 end. The filter is quite tight but you will be able to push it on. Tighten the worm groove clamp with a flathead screwdriver.

7. Install the remaining straight coupler on pipe #2 (end 4) with both t-bolt clamps. Tighten the clamp on the pipe side of the coupler.

8. Feed the CAI extension (pipe #3) through from the fender well side and connect it to the straight coupler. You will rotate the CAI extension to keep as much gap as possible as pictured below (green line): Here is where the filter will actually help prevent the possibility of it touching the steel edge of the opening. When you put the car back together the edge of the filter will be against the splash guard most of the time preventing the possibility of contact .



9. Once your intake looks like the one in the pictures, go back and tighten everything up (or make sure it is plenty tight) and you are almost finished. Right now, the system should look like the picture below (considering you have the CAI)




10. If you opted for the breather fitting to be installed in your intake, you can now hook up the breather line to the intake system and use the pliers to put the clamp on the line.



11. Congrats, you are now done with the entire system. Re-install the bumper and go for a ride!

As stated, the pictures of the intake on the car are NOT polished.

Below are pics of the piping after I spent some time cleaning up the cuts and cleaning/polishing them up a bit.

Turbosocks SRI:






Turbosocks CAI:









These can be purchased from me at anytime.

CAI = 130$ shipped in the lower 48 states
CAI with breather fitting = 140$
SRI = 110$ shipped in the lower 48 states
SRI with breather fitting = 120$

You can also order them without a filter and save 15$ if you want to use your own filter.

I can get the couplers in black or blue.

couplers are 3 ply silicone
piping is 2mm thick aluminum
clamps are SS T-bolt style
filter is high flow washable dual cone

Payments can be made to [email protected] via Paypal!
 
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I'm sold!! Paypal your way.

I'd like the black silicone fittings and orange cone filter!!


One last question... does it throw any error code??
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This will not throw any code. The filter only comes in the Red but it will be hidden in the fender well.
 

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OK, stupid questions time...

1. Is the stock air intake of the VT a CAI, a SRI, or neither?
2. If i go CAI, do i need to buy a special filter or use?
3. Which is louder/quieter between the two?
4. If i go SRI and want to buy the filter from you, is it a decent quality filter?
5. Do I need to reinstall stock air intake should I need warranty work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, stupid questions time...

1. Is the stock air intake of the VT a CAI, a SRI, or neither?
2. If i go CAI, do i need to buy a special filter or use?
3. Which is louder/quieter between the two?
4. If i go SRI and want to buy the filter from you, is it a decent quality filter?
5. Do I need to reinstall stock air intake should I need warranty work?
1. I would consider the stoc intake to be a quite restrictive Cai. It is getting cooler air but with all the restrictions the airflow is much less which is why the Cai frees up power.

2. The filter is a high flow washable cone filter. 4. The filters I use are great, I have been using them since 2004 and never had a single issue. I've also never had a customer complain about the filters.

3. They sound bout the same. With the car being turbo there is quite a bit of suction noise. The Cai is slightly quieter because of the extra 14" of pipe and it being in the fender well.

5. If you have engine issues which are rare in hyundais, you may want to have the stock system to throw on to avoid headaches of a warranty claim. It would probably be about a 35 minute swap to put the entire stock system back on.
 
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Not sure if this got covered anywhere else, I did look around quite a bit, but what happens to the 2 rubber hoses that are now 'not in use'?
In this picture, I'm pointing at the hose in question, the second one is right below my finger. I did purchase a 1" plug to plug it up, however, what about the 2nd hose?
Thanks in advance!
Auto part Engine Fuel line Vehicle Car
 

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I put a small filter on the vent hose you have your finger on and left the larger bpv hose disconnected. Do not plug the one you have your finger on.
 

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Ok, thanks for the heads up!
I plugged the other hose w a 1" hose plug from Home Depot. i can most def hear the bpv now and the spring fluttering.
 

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Ok, thanks for the heads up!
I plugged the other hose w a 1" hose plug from Home Depot. i can most def hear the bpv now and the spring fluttering.
I don't think you're suppose to plug either one... I just bought extra hoses and ran it to the bottom of the car and exhaust it down there. I put a small filter on the breather one. the one for the BOV I just left open.
 

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Correct you don't want to plug either one. The bpv needs to vent off excess pressure...personally I think the other hose should have a filter but that's your choice.
 

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So maybe THAT'S the reason I'm showing a check engine light then.
Hmmmm.. Need to unplug that hose plug tomorrow and see.
What kind of breather filter did you use and where did you get it?
 

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You NEED to unplug that NOW! You run the risk of blowing seals!!!!!
 

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Ok, ok. First thing in the morning, I promise :).
Seriously though, thanks. I could have sworn I saw a post that said to plug it. . .
 

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So I got it all undone, but my check engine light is still on :(.
Did I ruin something or just trip something?!? Oooooooohhhh......boooooyyyy.....
Might have to wait and see what they'll say at my first oil change.
 

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Some autoparts stores can read and clear check engine codes for you, I like to check with them first to know what I got b4 I head to dealer, that way they can't lie to you about the codes
 

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So I got it all undone, but my check engine light is still on :(.
Did I ruin something or just trip something?!? Oooooooohhhh......boooooyyyy.....
Might have to wait and see what they'll say at my first oil change.
When I got the check engine light on.. I tried unplugging the battery and all sorts of thing and it didn't clear the check engine light... at the end I went to a auto part store and they ran the error code and clear it for me.. the dealer will as well clear that too...
 

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I picked mine up at Advance Auto Parts in the "ricer" section-I think the brand is Spectre-its a small black filter thats not very noticable-I used a short piece (2") of 3/8 fuel line to adapt it to the stock hose.
 

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Sorry it took so long to get a video up...


Here's a video of what it sounded like.

First two scene is with the camera outside, third is with the camera inside (windows down), last one is camera inside (windows up).

CAI VELOSTER - YouTube
 
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