Veloster Turbo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 130 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,542 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last night, I finally got around to installing the rigid collar kit on my car. Went quite easily. Needed a breaker bar to get the bolts in the front loose though.

Tools needed:

  • Jack stands
  • Jack
  • 19mm deep socket + socket wrench
  • breaker bar
Most important item..

Tightening torque :
Sub frame mounting bolt & nut
156.9 ~ 176.5N.m(16.0 ~ 18.0kgf.m, 115.7 ~ 130.2lb-ft)

That is on all four points.

Step one:
Jack up the car in the front as high as you can, place jack stands.

Step two:
Use breaker bar and break loose the subframe nuts in the front. You will have to access them through the ~2" holes in the subframe. Remove the nuts and insert the collars marked 'F' and hand tighten the nuts.

sfsss1001l.gif
IMG_20130701_210134_875.jpg
IMG_20130701_210227_790.jpg
IMG_20130701_210244_008.jpg

Step 3:
Loosen the big rear subframe bolts. You should not need the breaker bar here. Remove one bolt, add one of the collars from the leftover bag and hand tighten. (It is OKAY if the collars don't quite line up at this point) Do the same to the other side.

IMG_20130701_210530_143.jpg
IMG_20130701_210615_976.jpg

Step 4:
Go through and start tightening each bolt/nut back up and make sure that the collars are pushed through the hole without much resistance. When everything is finger tight, this will allow for the centering of the subframe.

Torque everything down quite snug and make sure all collars are seated.

Go through and torque to the specs above. (I typically don't use a torque wrench but would recommend one)

Enjoy your new-found steering response and other benefits. I felt a noticeable difference after the collar kit and really enjoy the new feel!

I saw a yellow NAV yesterday also while I was out. Thing looked like a 4x4!!!

IMG_20130701_195355_975.jpg

And I snapped a picture of the turbo and the WG solenoid which is my next project that I will try to 'hack'

IMG_20130701_205021_687.jpg
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
thank you again for a detailed instructions. Now to wait for pierce to see if there's a way to make this work with his brace. If there's a fix, would definitely re-place my order for these
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,542 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Pierce is going to be working on this soon! I sent him his kit and he got it. It SHOULD be a quite easy fix but we will see. I was going to come up with a fix for people but thought it might be a better idea to send them directly to the guy building them to come up with the best fix :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Mine were sitting in the mail yesterday and I was about to post asking if we had a DIY yet...speak of the devil. I just may have to toss these on tonight to see the difference it makes before my Pierce strut bar gets here.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,542 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
my guess is that it will open much less than 18lbs of boost, probably around 6-10lbs :p Typically some type of failsafe (I would hope) in case the solenoid malfunctioned.

What I am probably going to to is keep the solenoid hooked up (just like the BPV solenoid) and buy a cheap boost controller.

I will open the controller all the way and hook it up between the WG and turbo and see what happens. (all the way open should be WGA pressure) If the car even seems like it is acting OK by logs and feel, I will increase the pressure from there. Seems simple enough but will have everything to do with how the stock system is and what will trip limp mode.

If the only thing that will trip limp mode is boost pressures exceeding XXpsi, then as long as the spike is under that, we SHOULD be good. My goal would be to deliver a stable 15-16lbs of pressure per gear while having satisfactory logs for timing, AFR, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
Hey Socks, that first image you posted which appears to be out of a service manual, you don't happen to have a bigger version do ya? I just want to make sure when i get under there I'm pulling the right bolts, or should it be pretty obvious once I'm underneath?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,542 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The first thing you will notice (at least I did) was the steering feel and response!

Everyone should be getting them VERY soon as I dropped off all the domestic (USA) ones on the same day!

Boots, that is the best resolution available off the website. You shouldn't be able to screw it up when you are under the car! Just pay careful attention to the pictures!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
The first thing you will notice (at least I did) was the steering feel and response!

I usually play kickball on Tuesday nights...rigid collar install may have to take precedence though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,877 Posts
Nice product line. Have you looked at modifying the waste gate tension rod. Check out gencoupe.com and look up waste gate mod.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,542 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Read about it before. Way too much would have to go into that to hope it worked well. The rod is very hard to access and wouldn't be practical at all for people to try out. Hopefully the solenoid mod will work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Last night, I finally got around to installing the rigid collar kit on my car. Went quite easily. Needed a breaker bar to get the bolts in the front loose though.

Tools needed:

  • Jack stands
  • Jack
  • 19mm deep socket + socket wrench
  • breaker bar
Most important item..

Tightening torque :
Sub frame mounting bolt & nut
156.9 ~ 176.5N.m(16.0 ~ 18.0kgf.m, 115.7 ~ 130.2lb-ft)

That is on all four points.

Step one:
Jack up the car in the front as high as you can, place jack stands.

Step two:
Use breaker bar and break loose the subframe nuts in the front. You will have to access them through the ~2" holes in the subframe. Remove the nuts and insert the collars marked 'F' and hand tighten the nuts.

View attachment 6657
View attachment 6652
View attachment 6653
View attachment 6654

Step 3:
Loosen the big rear subframe bolts. You should not need the breaker bar here. Remove one bolt, add one of the collars from the leftover bag and hand tighten. (It is OKAY if the collars don't quite line up at this point) Do the same to the other side.

View attachment 6655
View attachment 6656

Step 4:
Go through and start tightening each bolt/nut back up and make sure that the collars are pushed through the hole without much resistance. When everything is finger tight, this will allow for the centering of the subframe.

Torque everything down quite snug and make sure all collars are seated.

Go through and torque to the specs above. (I typically don't use a torque wrench but would recommend one)

Enjoy your new-found steering response and other benefits. I felt a noticeable difference after the collar kit and really enjoy the new feel!

I saw a yellow NAV yesterday also while I was out. Thing looked like a 4x4!!!

View attachment 6649

And I snapped a picture of the turbo and the WG solenoid which is my next project that I will try to 'hack'

View attachment 6651
Got mine in mail today. One question! Can this be done without unloading the wheels?
I assume the answer is Yes, but I try not to ever assume anything.

ttwotees :cool2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Hey Socks, that first image you posted which appears to be out of a service manual, you don't happen to have a bigger version do ya? I just want to make sure when i get under there I'm pulling the right bolts, or should it be pretty obvious once I'm underneath?
All you have to do is copy the bolt location image and paste it into an MS Word document and you can resize it yourself.

ttwotees :cool2:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,542 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
thanks for the awesome reply -X- and great review!

ttwotees, What do you mean by not unloading the wheels? How would you keep load on the wheels to get under the car and install these? If there was load on the wheels, there would be load on the subframe which might make it harder to install but probably not very much harder. Just curious how you would keep the wheels loaded while doing the install. A drive-on lift?

Dare Devil, the car spikes at ~18lbs for a second or so and then bleeds off to around 13-14lbs. What I would be trying to fix is the bleeding off part and if not totally fixing that but raising where it bleeds off to. Trying to get it to maintain a pressure of 15-16lbs in every gear instead of having it regulated by the solenoid (EBC - Electronic Boost controller)

I will be buying the parts to build a boost controller today as well as the new vacuum line. Hoping to have it hooked up this weekend for testing. Like I said, with our cranky ECU and all its CELs this might not even be feasible or it might work great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
thanks for the awesome reply -X- and great review!

ttwotees, What do you mean by not unloading the wheels? How would you keep load on the wheels to get under the car and install these? If there was load on the wheels, there would be load on the subframe which might make it harder to install but probably not very much harder. Just curious how you would keep the wheels loaded while doing the install. A drive-on lift?

Dare Devil, the car spikes at ~18lbs for a second or so and then bleeds off to around 13-14lbs. What I would be trying to fix is the bleeding off part and if not totally fixing that but raising where it bleeds off to. Trying to get it to maintain a pressure of 15-16lbs in every gear instead of having it regulated by the solenoid (EBC - Electronic Boost controller)

I will be buying the parts to build a boost controller today as well as the new vacuum line. Hoping to have it hooked up this weekend for testing. Like I said, with our cranky ECU and all its CELs this might not even be feasible or it might work great.

Fingers crossed for the latter...especially because I have a BOV and a Manifold plate to buy from you, and it would be really sweet to do this at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
So to take this back to the Rigid Collars. I got mine last week and installed them before heading out for the weekend to guide. Did about 350 miles of driving. Lots of highway and backcountry with switchbacks and fun curves and stuff.


Upon my initial test drive I was just "meh" about them. Until I got on a couple on ramps, made some quick lane changes, and hit some twisties. If you're looking for some huge steering gain, it's not going to happen. However it does provide you with that little bit of extra feedback this car needed. Well worth the price. It just makes the steering feel that little bit better that it actually steers like a performance car. It will never be perfect with the electronic steering, but it helps.
 
1 - 20 of 130 Posts
Top