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Turbosocks Vacuum Line Adapter for BOV/Boost Gauge, etc. starting from 40+ shipping!

97049 Views 523 Replies 82 Participants Last post by  zer0g5
4
I am going to get some flanges made pretty much like what RichieP did for his car for the Boost Gauge.



Reason being is I don't like how the stock solenoid works for the BOV. For people going to an FMIC kit or upgrading the BOV, there is typically no need for the two hoses anymore. You can't run the line directly to the source of the solenoid vacuum as it doesn't have the right boost/vacuum through the line to control a BOV or to operate a Boost Gauge.

For one, it is brittle (snapped off a nipple trying to simply remove the hose) and I like things mechanical.

This adapter will also work great for people wanting to easily run a boost gauge.

The only adapters that I could find online are to be welded directly onto a pipe and would require grinding down of the concave part FLAT to install as a MAP spacer as seen in the picture. These adapters are about 40-45$ shipped and would have no use to us without some machining.

I am looking to get the flanges made, drill and tap a hole in the side and install a nipple for a vacuum line. The installation of the flange would take approximately 5 minutes. Two 10mm bolts are all that need to be removed.

Would be looking at 40$ +shipping for the flange adapter kit (47$ +shipping with dual port and no BOV) which would include:

MAP Flange Spacer (3/4" thick) Aluminum
1/8" npt tapped hole with 1/8" nipple fitting installed
gaskets
bolts

Extra 5$ shipping to Canada.



For 93$ shipped, would include TWO ports on the flange, so you could run a dedicated BOV signal line and a boost gauge line AND would come with a tinted 7-color GlowShift Boost Gauge. Gauge will come with 6' of vacuum line which is plenty. One year warranty on the Gauge.

Extra 20$ shipping to Canada.



Also going to have the option to include a gauge pod as you will need to mount it somewhere. This will only be available if you also purchase the Boost Gauge.

12$ extra for this one:

16$ extra for this one:



THIS IS OFFICIALLY A FOR SALE THREAD!!

I need to get a good count of people looking to buy one of these. I have to order 10 flanges initially to get them into a separate production.

The manufacturer will just be manufacturing the flanges themselves and I will be drilling and tapping them to install the vacuum ports.

The manufacturer expects 3-4 weeks from when I order them to have them to ship to me. Once I have them, I am thinking about an hour turn around per piece or so from drilling to tapping, cleanup and installing the vacuum ports.

The flanges will be rectangular in shape, just like in my FMIC kit. Would cost more to have them machined to the shape of the MAP sensor and it really isn't worth it for a flange.



1. btjetman (refund sent)
2. swordfish (refund sent)
3. ttwotees (refund sent)
4. Phill
5. cbrmale
6. Ryan May (dual port + gauge)
7. Jared Thompson
8. Audiomotive
9. Johnson K
10. christopher l

Payments can be made as always to [email protected]

I will also be getting these up on my site in a few!
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So, the stock hoses would work with a genuine HKS BOV without doing this right? As they have a softer spring than the universals?

Either way, I'm interested in this, as I want that boost gauge :)
Take my money already!!!!
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The universal BOV may work too on the stock springs. This weekend, I plan on swapping my solenoid on jeremy's car to see how it functions.

As the nipple broke off, his BOV doesn't have a good vacuum source which is probably why it will not open. I thought hooking it right up to the IM would work but as my test showed with my Type S this weekend that the source was not a good source of vacuum.

As the initial setup of Veetee's FMIC kit showed, swapping the stock vacuum lines on the Type S, it wouldn't open..

This flange adapter would mainly be for those wanting a direct source of vacuum (like myself) and those wanting to run a boost gauge directly to the IM without using Tee's, tapping the IM, etc.
So, the stock hoses would work with a genuine HKS BOV without doing this right? As they have a softer spring than the universals?

Either way, I'm interested in this, as I want that boost gauge :)
You shouldn't have any issues, I'm the first to run the HKS SSQV IV and I've put over 2K miles with no issues.
this is what I got

隸書(隶书 魏碑,行書(书说文解字 / 說文解字

original finding a vacuum is Hard to find.

書(书说文解字 / 說文解字隸書(隶书 魏碑,行書(书说文解字 / 說文解字

I can make this work because I am turbosocks and you know I can just round up miracles in a box and ship it to you at a deal that you don't know why I am doing this

說文解字

For 100$ shipped, would include TWO ports on the flange, so you could run a dedicated BOV signal line and a boost gauge line AND would come with a tinted 7-color GlowShift Boost Gauge. Gauge will come with 6' of vacuum line which is plenty. One year warranty on the Gauge.



Need to see how many people are interested because I need at least 10 people to be worth it on my end.
Turbosocks, you already have my money, needless to say TAKE MORE! LOL

I always wondered about how to run a boost gauge. Saw others had issues. But this looks simple, like all your other mods. This would be worth it just for the boost gauge alone. But when I install your FMIC could I still utilize this for the BOV provided by the FMIC kit?

I guess what I am basically asking, For those with your FMIC kit, do we need this still in order to run a easy install for the boost gauge?

sorry if I am making this confusing. You know how ADD minds are lol
Just throw it in my FMIC box when its ready.
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This should be the easiest solution to run a dedicated boost line.

I thought it would be super easy just to Tee the line going to the solenoid.. NOPE.. didn't work on jeremy's car.. Thought something was screwed up with that universal HKS style BOV..

Went to ACE on Friday, ran a line from the IM (solenoid line) RIGHT to my BOV and nope, didn't work..

Yes, people with my FMIC kit, or others, would be able to utilize this setupto run their BOV right off the IM vs. through the stock solenoid setup.

For people with my or another FMIC kit, you can run the BOV how you see fit. If you want to run a dedicated line for a boost gauge, this setup would be the easiest way to do it. You can probably also tee the brake booster or another line but again, I am not keen on Tees.

Again, with the any BOV, the stock setup SHOULD work. The only reason I believe jeremy's is having issues is the vacuum line typically connected to the BOV is broken off. We tried to run it with the bottom line.. no dice.. tried to run it direct to the IM at the solenoid line.. no dice.. This weekend, I will be swapping over my solenoid on his car to see if the HKS STYLE setup works..
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The universal BOV may work too on the stock springs. This weekend, I plan on swapping my solenoid on jeremy's car to see how it functions.

As the nipple broke off, his BOV doesn't have a good vacuum source which is probably why it will not open. I thought hooking it right up to the IM would work but as my test showed with my Type S this weekend that the source was not a good source of vacuum.

As the initial setup of Veetee's FMIC kit showed, swapping the stock vacuum lines on the Type S, it wouldn't open..

This flange adapter would mainly be for those wanting a direct source of vacuum (like myself) and those wanting to run a boost gauge directly to the IM without using Tee's, tapping the IM, etc.
Oh ok it is like finding a good ground for electricity. Yeah I do want a good source for both the BOV and the Boost Gauge when I do my FMIC install.


Just throw it in my FMIC box when its ready.
I think the FMIC ships from California somewhere. Like his CAI/SRI/FMCAI, this kit would ship from him. so he can't throw it in the box lol
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Here's a silly question. If we go with this setup and have the 2 lines (BOV and Boost Gauge) - what happens with the stock lines? What do we do with those?
I would get one when I decided to install a boost gauge. Since there is no MBC option as of yet I'll probably wait a few more weeks to purchase, but this is the route I would take, hands down.
Any chance of making a flange with 3 vacuum ports instead of 2? I have an AVCR laying around that I may need that third port for.
Count me in. I have been chomping at the bit to get a Boost gauge. This one is sexy and the setup makes sense.
If it will allow me to read boost and vacuum right I'm down
-Will allow you to see boost and vacuum as it would be a direct source AT THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

-As always, will ship to Australia for cost of shipping

-I could try a T/Y style fitting that has two ports on it. Tapping 3 ports in this small of a flange probably wont work well.

-If you setup the BOV to the dedicated line and had an FMIC kit, you could just scrap the other lines. Now I have no idea what would happen if you removed the solenoid so I would probably say leave it plugged in. It will probably throw the P2261 code since it will not be connected to anything anymore. If you have the stock IC, you would have to cap the port on the intercooler. However, if you had the stock IC, the only reason to do this flange would be for a boost gauge and not dedicated BOV line. The stock BOV/BPV actually needs the solenoid.
Will we be able to run this with the stock bpv hooked up. Really would like a boost gauge but don't plan on running a bov
Yeah, you could just get the 1 port or 2 ports (and I could include a cap for one port) with the Boost Gauge. I haven't finalized anything yet, so you could really order it anyway you wanted.

I may end up doing just 2 port flanges and include an extra cap for the people who only are going to use one of them. This is in the preliminary stages right now :)
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The picture you posted was the initial test I did. It ran straight to the boost gauge sensor. I since added another port so I can run my Tial BOV directly from that on one side and the boost gauge on the other. I also removed the vacuum/boost lines to the BPV solenoid and capped them. I did however leave the electrical connector attached.
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