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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so i got my VT about 5 months ago, the first couple of months i was taking her to tracks and pushing her hard (she likes it) and i noticed plenty of carbon goop/crud/residue whatever u call it around the exhaust tip. So i decided to drive like an 87 year old woman for like a month just to see the difference...and to my surprise, was very minimal. I'm not sure if it's because i need a catch can or is it because the engine its just running too rich?? (2 much O2 x fuel ratio). Any can its better than none, but I don't know if its gonna make a big difference or what type of filter (mesh pads, bronze filter, SOS pad??) This is my 1st GDI and so far very pleased w/it. But i know that it's bypassing many components in order to inject the fuel and provide a faster burn and all that residue left inside concerns me. I plan on taking her to the 250-300 hp window (tune and big turbo eventually) so i would prefer not to have to buy twice. If you know, think, or have installed something to prevent this please feel free to post. Thnx.
 

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I don't feel that the mesh is that important a deal.

I've no mesh in my catch can and it's doing the job.

Where you locate the can seems to be more important in the scheme of things.

Mine is located low(below the motor) and in front of the radiators(for cooling).

Since all the oil will drain downwards, keeping it low will aid the capture as opposed to
the residue (that which is inside the hoses) draining back into the intake manifold or to the valve on the rocker cover.

***
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
can u take a pic of ur set up? how much ru actually collecting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Posted on 07-19-2012 lol, should have known turbo was the perpetrator. Thanks Hyperion. I was looking at one made by Mishimoto, holly crap is that expensive!!! -Overkill. I would probably come up w/ my own combo style/filter. Btw vendors, how come mazda has this, but our community has nothing? Is it a cost production issue? After all it is more beneficial than a pair or spacers, or mud flaps.



OilCatchCan Mazda.jpg
 

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Yeah, do NOT waste good money on something as simple as an Oil Catch Can. I have seen some 200$+ ones that are all fancy CNC machined with layers of baffling and fancy AN fittings..

You can accomplish pretty much the SAME thing for about 20-25$ a can or less.

I have carried oil catch cans in the past but they are just simply a steal on ebay so there is no reason to carry them. I get the same cans at almost the same cost you can buy them on ebay and then I have to ship them again.

Granted, I could make a kit with the hoses cut to the right length and a mounting solution.... but people would probably still opt for the 20$ ebay setup and do the rest their own to save 5-10$.

For example:

I can get something almost identical to this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BILLET-ALUM...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c6e70b1a0&vxp=mtr

shipped to me for 14.00... Shipping on it in the USA would be around 4$-6$ or so.. Right there it already will cost more than buying it on ebay.. Even if I spent the time to pre-cut the hoses and then modify/make a bracket VTurbo specific I'd have to charge 35$ shipped to make it worth it, all for something that someone could just buy for 17$ shipped to their door and spend a little of their own time making it a custom fit. :p
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would def follow the advise, not sure about placement however -waiting on FMIC kit from 845, and interested in your oil kit sometime down the road.
 

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Ya definitely get one that's affordable, the mesh/SOS is always under debate.
Placement is key, I will be placing mine on the passenger side.
 

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My setup is on page 14 of the OCC thread. You don't have to go expensive but there is nothing wrong with spending a little more to get what you want. Some people preach cheap and try to make people feel and look silly for spending their money on what they want. Some peoples cheap setup look like cheap setup. Get what you want whether it's $14 or $140 as long as you are happy.
 

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yeah, nothing wrong with spending the money if you have it and that is where you are wanting to spend your money.

Just assuming most people want the best value and not wanting to spend an arm and a leg on something when they don't need to.

They are all going to do the same job.
 

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where should you mount it for best results and how do you mount it? im not educated in this "socks" so id appreciate the rundown,
 

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The black soot on the rear of the car is normal for direct injection engines, but turbocharged and normally aspirated. Direct injection has been adopted to better cool the internals of the motor so that higher compression and more spark advance can be used, and the mixture is deliberately set rich under high load as a result. With port fuel injection the incoming charge is heated by the incoming air and doesn't cool the internals of the motor very well. So the soot has nothing to do with oil fumes or anything like that.

The general consenus is that the problems associated with early direct injection motors were due to stratified charge lean-burn and associated exhaust gas recirculation. It was the exhaust gas which caused most of the deposits, and to avoid this the Veloster turbo has variable valve timing on both camshafts and no exhaust gas recirculation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thnx for the info cbrmale, it certainly clears some other questions i had. Where u got the data, if u don't mind sharing? I would like to read more about it.
 

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Just to chime in about how much oil my catch can is collecting. Every 1000 miles I check my catch can and find about .25 inches worth of gunk. Not a whole lot, but I can only imagine how much this stuff would build up in the manifolds over a period of time. Overall I'm quiet happy with what its doing.

'Socks KNOWS his stuff. I would definitely take into consideration his advices as they are valuable. However, I decided I wanted something shiny and embellishing and decided to cough up a few extra dollars to add a nice 'jewel' to my engine bay. I'm happy with what it does and I have no regrets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just to chime in about how much oil my catch can is collecting. Every 1000 miles I check my catch can and find about .25 inches worth of gunk. Not a whole lot, but I can only imagine how much this stuff would build up in the manifolds over a period of time. Overall I'm quiet happy with what its doing.

'Socks KNOWS his stuff. I would definitely take into consideration his advices as they are valuable. However, I decided I wanted something shiny and embellishing and decided to cough up a few extra dollars to add a nice 'jewel' to my engine bay. I'm happy with what it does and I have no regrets.



Take a pic of your shinny nice "jewel" dude
 

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thnx for the info cbrmale, it certainly clears some other questions i had. Where u got the data, if u don't mind sharing? I would like to read more about it.
My previous car had direct fuel injection and stratified-charge lean-burn, and the idle mixture was 80:1. To keep emissions in check they ran a lot of exhaust gas recirculation which they mentioned in the publicity documentation (strange way to market a car). I also had a lot of soot around the exhaust tip and lower apron, but I was aware of why because that car ran 12:1 compression because of the direct injection, which is why it had so much torque (again in the sales documentation).

I first became aware of the problems of deposits building up on the back of the inlet valves from here, and I did some online research and discovered it was mostly with Volkswagen / Audi, BMW and GM Europe from many years ago, and that more manufacturers were adopting direct fuel injection but without exhaust gas recirculation by using variable valve timing to keep emissions within target. Most of the deposits in a catch can will be water vapour with a small quantity of oil (oily water), and the general consensus was that a catch can isn't necessary in modern direct injection engines. A catch can can't do any harm, but I run Subaru upper engine cleaner through the inlet manifold of my VT prior to each oil change as a precaution. Mercedes Benz have now gone direct injection and they don't use technology unless that technology is fault-free.

My previous car became sluggish over time and I did some investigations like checking the ECU for codes and a compression test, and it was all good. Once I bought my Veloster and came here I realised my previous car from GM Europe probably had deposits on the back of the inlet valves which caused the performance to drop-off.
 

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I spent a little extra to match the rest of the engine bay parts and look trick...plus baffled and meshed, the Billet Tech oil catch can like Lagonwagons'...using nylon black braided lines and black and blue A/N fittings looks awesome with the alumn strut bar, Injen CAI and 845 Motorsports FMIC piping...it looks sweet.



 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I took ya"ll advice, i just ordered a billet (i think its the same one AZG) the quality looks good, at least on pics. Yes its a little expen, but i plan to have myVT for a long time so i guess im paying for peace of mind, lol. Hey AZG, i also have an InjenCAI and might end up placing it in the same spot since its low and cool, do i need a bracket to install the OCC in that spot? thnx.
 

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I took ya"ll advice, i just ordered a billet (i think its the same one AZG) the quality looks good, at least on pics. Yes its a little expen, but i plan to have myVT for a long time so i guess im paying for peace of mind, lol. Hey AZG, i also have an InjenCAI and might end up placing it in the same spot since its low and cool, do i need a bracket to install the OCC in that spot? thnx.
Use some oil on the o ring before installing the can..I didnt and had issues getting it off. I used the intake rubber isolator to mount it....I removed the bracket on the can with the allen bolt and threaded it onto the intake mount isolator and then mounted the can back onto the bracket. I can do a pic if needed. The mount on the can is threaded....and will tighten down on the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Use some oil on the o ring before installing the can..I didnt and had issues getting it off. I used the intake rubber isolator to mount it....I removed the bracket on the can with the allen bolt and threaded it onto the intake mount isolator and then mounted the can back onto the bracket. I can do a pic if needed. The mount on the can is threaded....and will tighten down on the intake.


Sure, a pic is always welcome. Take one of the lines attachment points also if u can. Thx again AZG!
 
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