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The car takes 6 quarts. It's about 5 for the engine and 1 for the turbo and it's feed lines. When the engine is off and cold the dip stick shows an over fill. But with the engine running the dip sip shows just right.
 

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Here is the verbiage from my owner's manual (still not separate Veloster Turbo Owner's Manual available I guess?):

Checking the engine oil level
1. Be sure the vehicle is on level ground.
2. Start the engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature.
3. Turn the engine off and wait for a few minutes (about 5 minutes) for the oil to return to the oil pan.
4. Pull the dipstick out, wipe it clean, and re-insert it fully.
5. Pull the dipstick out again and check the level. The level should be between F (Full) and L (Low).
Further guidance:

If it is near or at L, add enough oil to bring
the level to F. Do not overfill.
CAUTION
• Do not overfill with engine oil.
Engine damage may result.
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The car takes 6 quarts. It's about 5 for the engine and 1 for the turbo and it's feed lines. When the engine is off and cold the dip stick shows an over fill. But with the engine running the dip sip shows just right.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425510818.575648.jpg
 
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I had the same issue with the oil capacity. I did some research and found that both the turbo and non turbo have the same oil pan and dipstick. I contacted Hyundai and was informed by a field service engineer that the owners manual is wrong and it holds 3.8 qts just like the non turbo model. Prior to getting a definitive answer from the FSE I contacted 6 different dealers only to find I got 6 different answer. Pretty sad when the dealer body doesn't even know.
 

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3.8 qts puts mine right on full, The manuals instructions of 4.8 is way too much, They need to fix this. All I can say is thank goodness for velosterturbo.org!
 

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The car takes 6 quarts. It's about 5 for the engine and 1 for the turbo and it's feed lines. When the engine is off and cold the dip stick shows an over fill. But with the engine running the dip sip shows just right.
god that is such dangerous misinformation, he'll find out the hard way I'm sure.
 

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so basically what you guys are saying is i should buy my pennzoil 5w-30 ultra premium full synthetic by the cases lol

SO!, to make sure i got this right with all this back & forth, but all we need is 3.8 qts correct? :D
 

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i bought 2 quarts, but sounds like im gonna need 2 more and i got 3 oem filters from a veloster.org user who parted with there 2016 rspec for 10 bucks, a clear 3m front bumper and hood for 20 bucks and oem Inclimate Weather floor mats never used for 30. such a deal from the gentleman.

as for the oil change i take it to the dealer. hearing mobil 1 isn't all that great for our gdi turbo engines.
 

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.. i got 3 oem filters from a veloster.org user who parted with their 2016 rspec for 10 bucks, .. .[/FONT][/COLOR]
Someone picked up a real bargain there :smile:

One thing about a metric system .. the VT takes 4 liters even.
 
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It's been known for a while that the manual is incorrect (and dealers are also misinformed). The correct amount of oil for a full oil change (including the filter) is 4.2 US quarts, or 4 Liters. Luckily for us here in Canada it's sold in liters .. so I've never even questioned it :wink:
I've been going with this...
 

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I had mine changed out with new filter a couple weeks ago. I gave them 4 qts of PUP and my level today is just a hair below the full limit on the dip stick.
 

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I can tell you this much. I've just drained flat, then jacked up the rear to get residual out. I'm still 1/2 inch shy of full on the dip stick. I ran the car for two 5 minute intervals, checking between after a short rest, and it's still 1/2" short of F. I'll probably add more. I have a quarter left. (Using CERMA thanks to -X-) :)
 

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I had been changing my oil using only ramps but after my my UOA came back slightly sour I wanted to try something different. After draining the car while on ramps, I stuck a line from a hand pump like this and I was able to get an additional half a quart out!

This is significant. If you think about it it's like leaving part of your oil in for at least twice as long as it should be, bringing the overall protection qualities of the new oil put in down.

This also explains the capacity discrepancy from the owners manual and what people here have found. Our cars were designed to be drained while on a lift, so unless you have one of those buy a pump.
 

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Not lowered and have a nice shallow wide drain pan, easy to jack the front up, crack and remove drain bolt and filter then lower car to drain.
 

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I couldn't agree more. I got at least 4-5 quarts out of mine but not all of it as my dipstick shows. I jacked it up, drained the oil, lowered the jack but left the oil bucket there to continue the drain of the oil from the filter input and the oil drain. The car is level at this point. After it drained no more flat, I jacked up the rear a good bit and let it drain more. This seemed to get the most out. I'll probably try that siphon though next time.
I had been changing my oil using only ramps but after my my UOA came back slightly sour I wanted to try something different. After draining the car while on ramps, I stuck a line from a hand pump like this and I was able to get an additional half a quart out!

This is significant. If you think about it it's like leaving part of your oil in for at least twice as long as it should be, bringing the overall protection qualities of the new oil put in down.

This also explains the capacity discrepancy from the owners manual and what people here have found. Our cars were designed to be drained while on a lift, so unless you have one of those buy a pump.
 

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I buy gallon jugs, and fill the filter before screwing it back on, oil level ends up at the full mark every time and stays there for the life of the oil.
 
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