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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a few people asking how I did it, so I figure it warrant a separate thread to discuss.

Here's what I did, and did wrong.

Here's what you need:
1 can of Vitamin C Pearl 12oz paint. I ordered 2 since I'm going to do the engine cover and a few trim pieces inside the headlights and interior as well. But 1 can will be enough to do the wheels. Automotivetouchup.com Touch Up Paint, Aerosol Spray Paint and Touchup Paint Accessories | AutomotiveTouchup | 888-710-5192
1 can of high gloss clear top coat. I didn't buy the $8 a can one they had. I used the $4 a can general purpose from Walmart, make sure it's non-yellowing.
Spray bottle with soapy solution
Hair Dryer (to dry and blow off dust and debris)
Lint Free Cloth
Flat Black Plastidip - $6 a can for me locally at Lowes. I ordered it online, and picked it up in store. I ordered 4 cans, used about 3. Should've used more.
Shop Plasti Dip 11 Oz. Black Matte Spray Paint at Lowes.com
Spray paint bottle attachment to make it into a gun. Don't even try without this:
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5278/5872766073_201ae55f29.jpg

1. Jack cars up on all four.
***2 tons jack and jack stand with 2 additional jack stands from K-mart $53.
2. Remove wheels
***Veloster doesn't come with a lug nut removal tool or break bar***
3. Remove the inserts, KEEP ALL SCREWS in a zip loc bag!
***I kept all my screws in a magnetic bowl, but somehow still managed to lose 2. Good thing they're fairly common size.***
4. Clean inserts with soapy water solution, wipe dry with lint free cloth, dry with hair dryer.

5. Lay all inserts on a piece of wood so they balance themselves up. Make sure wherever you're spraying, you have room to walk around them.

6. Spray a light coat from at least 10" away. I repeat, LIGHT coat. Don't want any bleeding or running. VERY LIGHT coat.
I did 3 coats total with 30 minutes drying time in between. I did a coat on here, then go put a coat on the wheels, and when I got back, it would be ready to do another coat.

7. The paint will look dull and pretty ugly until you put the clear coat on since. Don't worry! I went with 3 coats of clear.



The wheels:
Follow the same prep, except I also use a de-greaser as well. Do it in a well lit and well ventilated area!!!!! I did not... so I didn't see areas that didn't get good coverage (the side of the spokes).

The calipers:
Followed the same prep as wheels, then mask off AS MUCH as possible around it, so that you don't get over spray everywhere.
I used Dupli Color Ceramic Engine paint in Hemi Orange. As you can see, it doesn't match very well, but it's actually not too bad. I actually liked that it didn't match.
Buy Duplicolor Engine Enamel with Ceramic™, Chrysler Hemi Orange, 12 oz. Aerosol DE1652 at Advance Auto Parts


Here are the things I learned:
- DONT spray paint when it's dark, hard to see where you've covered and where you haven't.
- DONT spray paint late at night when humidity is high, the plasti-dip is already thick, so it clumps even more, have to peel off and tried again.
- DO mask up the calipers and the surrounding body very well! I used < $1 plastic table cloth.


Here are the results:
Alloy wheel Wheel Tire Rim Vehicle Alloy wheel Wheel Tire Rim Vehicle Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hyundai Hyundai veloster Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Hyundai veloster Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hyundai veloster Motor vehicle Alloy wheel Tire Wheel Rim Automotive tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
looks great. They don't have elite white though.
Hmmm you're right. No Elite white. Check your paint code on the door panel and see if it match the paint code for "Century White".


If I had white, I'd just plastidip it white, and then spray the plasti-dip glossifier on it to get it glossy.
 

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Thanks for the Great write up! This is giving me some great ideas. Did you have a discount coupon for their shipping?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
crazy how great that matches up
Well it is the exact same paint, it better match!

I also used it for the headlight bezel. It matched well in there as well.

Still have about a can left, might do some of the inside silver trim pieces with it.
 

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Once the screws are removed from the back side of the rim, the inserts will most likely fall off. The center cap has a spring type ring on the back side you will pry out with a flat bladed screw driver. The center cap then pushes out with a gentle tap.
 

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Alright, now that I've taken my stock wheels off and have taken them apart, what the heck did you do about painting around the air inflation nipple thingy, OP?!?
 

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Hmmm you're right. No Elite white. Check your paint code on the door panel and see if it match the paint code for "Century White".


If I had white, I'd just plastidip it white, and then spray the plasti-dip glossifier on it to get it glossy.


I have the VT in boston red i wanna do my calipers and maybe my rims but only if it all matches.....what red would you use to on the calipers ??

thanks and your write up is Awesome
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Sorry, haven't check in in a while... I'll answer some questions now.

I taped over the air valve knob using painter's tape.

The fins will fall right out after you take the screws out, and the centerpiece will need to be "pop" out with a screw driver or something.

I sprayed the lug nuts separately, and plugged the lug nut holes, so you dont get any plastidip into the holes. If you do, when you tighten the lug nuts, it might possibly grab onto the plastidip and marr it or rip it.

Now that it's been about six months since I did it, I wish I used a glossifier or a top coat on the plastidip, since it looks dull now. Still looks good, just a little dull.

I'm going to take it off, and spray it gloss black soon. Plastidip is good for what it is, but it's not permanent, and it will fade in time and gets dirty and a little hard to clean.

Here's a recent picture:
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Hyundai veloster
 
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