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Hello, my name is Tom. I am a 63 year old retired professional mechanic. Just purchased a 2020 Veloster Turbo DCT. Also own a modified Mazda 3 and an NA Miata. Looking for as much info on Veloster performance as I can find. Raced MX as a kid, road raced a Kawasaki from 2003 to 2005, then moved to auto x and HPDE/ Time Attack. I only have 105 miles on the Veloster, light weight rims and sticky tires ordered, also a light weight battery. Trying to sift thru past posts here, only interested in performance, not sound, gas mileage or modifications for a particular look. Appreciate any and all documented improvement advice.
 

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You will find much information here. Some of the gen 2/19+ info is lacking due to being new. Check out SXTH element engineering on FB for go fast parts and I make some as well and more in the works. The good news is that the DCT and OEM programming it is better in the 19+. The bad news is not much power can be had with bolt ons without ecu tuning unlike the first gen/13-17 VT.
 

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Thanks, plan to put 500 to 1,000 miles on it and then go for a tune. This is not my first turbo car, but I am always amazed that anything under the hood can survive the kind of heat these things produce.
 

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Be sure to do some proper maintenance and bolt on before the tune and run only 91+ gas. SXTH is who you want the tune from.
 

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You'll want to do an oil change soon and replace with OEM filter and better oil. Read on here for the most common suggested oils. You'll also need better plugs which there are 2 good ones recommended the most. Also 91+ fuel only.

Other flow and cooling mods would be very beneficial to get the most from a tune.

Check out the intercooler I just had made. Also have hot pipe and water/meth injection kit, intake for the car. Catless downpipe and exhaust also help these cars a good bit once tuned on the 19+.
 

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Already purchased filters and oil. Plan to change oil and filter at 150 to 200 miles. Aware of LSPI. Though I started my career as a motorcycle snowmobile mechanic and then moved to autos, I retired from a position as a fleet mechanic. All our diesels had turbos but none of our gas engine light duty vehicles had them so I am playing catch up on modern direct injection turbo engines. Water/meth injection sounds like a very good idea. By the way do you know what BMEP on this engine is at full boost? I should also mention that I am a road course and winding back road kind of guy. No interest in drag racing or huge HP, assuming approximately 175WHP stock, 210 to 220 is all I am looking for. Planning a long term progressive weight reduction. Every HP added also adds heat, need strategies to shed excess heat. Modern tread wear tires in the 200 class with decent suspension can create better than one G, any danger of cavitation with the Veloster?
 

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The car does ~190/220 stock on 93 fuel dynojet STD correction. That power goal will happen with tune and plugs only with 91+ fuel. But heat you want to deal with regardless or the ecu pulls power. Water/meth setup properly will be the most beneficial and easily take you over your goals with the tune and plugs on premium fuel and be safer as well. I also have thermostat and radiator cap if need be that'll keep ECT in check.
 

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Not sure what you are saying. All the dyno results I have seen for a totally stock Veloster show mid one seventies, which makes sense if Hyundai is claiming 201 at the crank. I see no reason at this power level for Hyundai to under rate their engines. Of course dynos and dyno operators very significantly, the reason only consecutive results on the same dyno with the same operator are relevant. Filled up with 91 this am. I wonder, perhaps it is here somewhere and I missed it, what is the performance in the rain? I would expect the rain water to pull a lot of heat out of the IC.
 

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I've dyno all year model and transmission on same dyno. The 19+ seem to put more power down than the 13-17. The dyno you see in the 170's will be mostly from 13-17 VT and if a 19+ it was not on a dynojet in STD correction or was heat soaked or different dyno or correction factor. Power in rain makes no significant difference. Iat and ECT in general will change power output.
 

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I have decides to ahead and order a water/meth injection kit. What in your opinion are the best two or three available? One issue with this entire situation, one which I have already faced with my Mazda 3, is that we have no local dyno or tuners. We have no road courses anywhere close, there is a very nice drag strip within a reasonable drive, so there is local support for traditional drag cars. If I had a 500hp Camaro I would be all set, but a small turbo car, no support locally.
 

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I piece them together for the car and the use. None of the universal kits available are setup ideally for these cars.
 

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OK, thanks. Guess I will order what looks like the highest quality and modify from there. Any idea what is the best camber setting with top performing 200 tread wear tires is? I have for years been endlessly frustrated by forums because so much emphases is placed on looks and sound. Wish someone would start a forum dedicated to real, demonstrated performance, power and handling.
 

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RPM00Mirage on here may know the camber answer.

Do not just buy a water/meth injection kit. PM I'll hook you up.
 

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Click a user's name under their profile pic then select start conversation and type away and send when done.
 

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OK, thanks. Guess I will order what looks like the highest quality and modify from there. Any idea what is the best camber setting with top performing 200 tread wear tires is? I have for years been endlessly frustrated by forums because so much emphases is placed on looks and sound. Wish someone would start a forum dedicated to real, demonstrated performance, power and handling.
If you dig a bit you can find quite a bit about power and handling.
Speaking of the handling, I can't comment on alignment but if you are looking for any chassis braces I would check out Pierce or Evilla. I have parts from both of them and have been mostly pleased with them (my only issues are hardware rusting but thats easy enough to fix). If you opt for front tie-bar bracing (I would suggest this over subframe collars) then do note that it will be the lowest point on your car.
 

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you want good handling performance?

re71-r tires, -2.5 camber up, 1 degree toe out up front... whiteline caster correcting bushings, strut bar

for the rear, i left the camber alone added the pierce rear torsion bar.

i don't run any of the chassis braces i feel they are ridiculously overkill for a street car and lower your ground clearance.
 

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you want good handling performance?

re71-r tires, -2.5 camber up, 1 degree toe out up front... whiteline caster correcting bushings, strut bar

for the rear, i left the camber alone added the pierce rear torsion bar.

i don't run any of the chassis braces i feel they are ridiculously overkill for a street car and lower your ground clearance.
He has a 2020 so not sure if the torsion bar is applicable.
Yeah I bought my chassis brace because it was cheap. It's nice. I like the way it feels. But I consider taking it off pretty much every week. My car isn't lowered for a reason so not a huge fan of losing clearance.
 

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Had RE71's on may last car, great tire but I have A052's ordered. Supposedly slightly better ultimate grip than RE71 and two pounds lighter. Tire weight is even more important than rim weight. Also have 18lb, 18x8 Motegi rims ordered along with lightweight battery. Never could get enough Neg camber on my last track car. Thanks for the info.
 
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