[RPW00Mirage]

My setup is plain for ease of use. 17s are nice for daily and easy on the wallet for tires. Plus easy to clean helps.
I’d love a 17x7.5 or 17x8. Slightly less offset maybe a 45? (I think it’s 47 now)

 

[Mazda3]

Yeah, kind of wish I went with 17's, lighter, cheaper. Could have stayed with 40's and improved final gearing.

 

[trdtoy]

A 9.5" in the +40-45 offset area should clear fenders and suspension with the 235/40R18. I know a VT owner that ran 245 on a 17 x 9 +42 lowered and it rubbed fenders when pushing the car harder. But this was on springs and not coilovers and would be like running a mid to high 30's offset with a 235 which will not clear without camber. No need for anyone else to pay for someone else to play when things like this are pretty much known in the community ;-)

 

[Mazda3]

So you are guaranteeing a 235 on a 9.5 with stock height, stock suspension with no fender rolling will not rub under any conditions. At what offset?

 

[Mazda3]

Please give me name or names of owner who have done this so I can verify. Have not installed new wheels yet, may be able to exchange.

 

[trdtoy]

Here are two pics for reference.

This is your stock tire/wheel with 15 mm spacer which is equal to having a +34 offset wheel. Many many cars have this setup no issues. This clears turning and even lowered on coilovers or bags. So on any suspension especially near stock height it will clear. Comparison is to a 235/40 on a 18 x 9.5 +45.

This picture is this same latter setup mentioned compared to a 255/35 on the OEM wheel which also clears everything especially at or near stock height same as the other setup. This setup comes closest to the suspension with the OEM wheel offset but still has some clearance to work with.

My suggestion would be if you wanted a 9 or 9.5" wheel go with something like a montegi track lite with a +45 offset or higher if you can find something. This would ensure clearance from the fender with suspension under load if you have OEM camber specs and allow you to run a spacer if need be for tighter fender fitment or clearance from the suspension if you decide to add decent amount of camber later for any reason. The only way this setup would rub would be under a load that I'm not sure would be possible on stock suspension or near stock height on coilovers. Lowering springs would be more likely.

 

[trdtoy]

Another good example. Here is specs of a car I was in the other day tuning vs the 235 on wide wheel setup being discussed. The car i was in did rub in the rear on bumps or cornering halfway down the sidewalls but also had legit 500+ lbs added weight in the car and was lowered on eibach springs which lower the car 1.5-1.7".

That being said with the 9.5" +45 setup on 235/40 you'd have to compress the OEM suspension height 2-2.5" + what the 500+ lbs extra weight in the car did before you rub the tire sidewalls on the fenders.

 

[Hotline214]

Hi,
My name is Jason and I recently got a good deal on a 2013 turbo with a blown engine. I've wanted one of these since the first time I saw one and impulse purchased it without doing much research at all. I don't know where to even begin the search for a new motor. I don't want to purchase one with the same weakened rids that this one had. Will a newer 1.6t fit in a 2013 if I can find one at a reasonable price? Should I just buy a new block with upgraded rods and reuse the rest of my existing engine components? I am in way over my head and am already regretting the purchase but I am determined to resurrect this car. I will have about a 2500 budget to spend on the motor. A mechanic friend of mine will help me with installing it so I don't have to worry as much about labor costs. Any help I can get to point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. I'm open to anything as long as the car keeps the turbo.
Thank you.
2013 Veloster turbo. DOA @ 90000 miles.
Rod through bottom of crankcase.

 

[trdtoy]

Car-part.com for the engine. Look for 15-17 engine with low mileage. Stud the head before installing with ARP head studs for added protection in case you want to go for more power.

 

[Hotline214]

Car-part.com for the engine. Look for 15-17 engine with low mileage. Stud the head before installing with ARP head studs for added protection in case you want to go for more power.

Thank you. I've just sent an email to them.

 

[trevorsinclair16]

My names Trevor, and I just bought my VT yesterday as the first car I've officially owned (any others I drove were parents cars). And though I've always worked on the cars I drove prior myself, I've never worked on a turboed car, so I can here because I figured this would be the best place for information regarding upgrades and inevitable repairs. Ive heard these cars aren't the most reliable, but I love the way it drives and the way it looks, so I bought it anyway. Shes a 2013 and pretty bare bones in terms of features. But the driving experience was really all I was after.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

 

[trdtoy]

Can be very reliable but like anything else they require proper maintenance. The 13 are the cars with the most issues due to the oem tune being crap, issues with fuel line, plugs being too hot, and weaker internals. Plenty information here to help you out. Look at my posts if you want more factual helpful information.

 

[SlkRyD]

Hey Guys,

💪🤘
Its been years since I have been in the scene. I have a 14 Velo Turbo..and currently modding it. I'm always looking for insights and suggestions!

Please follow me on IG: jyrydr

IF anyone wants to collaborate let me know!

 

[trdtoy]

Welcome!

 

[MikedaddyH]

Hi I just purchased a 2016 VT with the 7sp AT . Has 63k miles on the clock and is fun to drive. This will be used as a daily driver to replace my Sonata Sport 2.0T. I plan on upgrading the brakes and adding suspension bars on the front and rear of the car before adding any power upgrades. Not new to the scene , have a 98Eclipse GSX as a toy also.
MikedaddyH

 

[trdtoy]

Welcome. Just know the 16-17 DCT have been sketchy due to the transmission. Search the forum for anything and feel free to ask anything you can't find or anything else. But do search first as much information is in here.

 

[RPW00Mirage]

Welcome to the club!

 

[reymacky]

Hi, I've been following this group for a while now and it's very informative, thanks to everyone who has contributed to this wiki-like forum . It's been a dream owning a VT and finally, I just got one last month. it's a 2016 VT 7Speed DCT and only has 7Tkms+ on the clock (weekend car). I'm in the Philippines and there's not much support for this car here both community and parts, so upgrades might be a real pain to get. But performance upgrade is part of my goal and planning to add these things pretty soon:
1. ADD W1 V3 Dual OCC
2. Takeda Momentum Cold Air Intake with Pro 5R Filter
3. BC Coilovers
4. Solo 3" HFC + Solo MachV 2in1 3" Catback + 4OD tips
5. Sxth Element FMIC

Can anyone check if those are worthy upgrades? I'm not going to put all of those at once but should be in that sequence.

Thanks and so glad to be here!

 

[trdtoy]

Some of those are good some not as good. Need to figure out your power goals and use of car then the mods can be advised properly and cost effective.

 

[reymacky]

Some of those are good some not as good. Need to figure out your power goals and use of car then the mods can be advised properly and cost effective.

Thanks @trdtoy ! goal is to run around 14s-13s quarter mile if that's something possible, given good tires (semi-slicks) will be installed together with those upgrades. Will be joining occasional drag wars so that solo exhaust is a good fit so I can bolt on the straight pipe on drag day and the resonator for daily. I don't want it to be loud as I'm using it daily. I'll also get a tune once all of that hardware is installed to get the most gains out of it. And I love a neat setup in the engine thus opted for the takeda and sxth fmic. BTW, #1 is already off the list, just waiting for it to arrive