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Oh damn that's really nice and yeah, no shoes need to be worn with that. 😁😉
Really nice and I'm guessing this is not a daily driver with this kind of nice flooring?
definitely a daily, just trying the make it the best I can “with time of course” haha845 non catted downpipe gets here Thursday and monster intercooler kit otw.. just upgrading it as much as I can really, was told to focus on some cosmetics so I’ll start doing some of those mods the next few months
106024
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Actual performance/handling parts on the way, but over the holiday did a full de/rebadge (Loden), UltraGauge EM Plus v1.4 install, and LasFit LED backup lights (T-T15), all turn signals (T-1156A), marker bulbs (T10/198/164), license plate bulbs (T10/198/164), map lights (L-31mm), and SwitchBack fog lamps (LDPlus H8/9/11/16).
...fairly productive holiday :)
Major Front Rebadge.jpg Major Butt Rebadge.jpg Major SW Rebadge.jpg Major Wheel Rebadge.jpg Major Lasfit1.jpg Major Lasfit2.jpg
 

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AEM CAI.jpg Pierce Buttbar.jpg Pierce rear torsion bar and AEM CAI (21-724P) went in over the weekend... what a difference!

I will note, on the CAI installation: as others have said elsewhere, there's one bolt on the OEM snorkel assembly you can't get off without pulling the bumper... so activate beast mode and break it. Make sure to disconnect the fog light wire (if equipped) from its mounting spot on the snorkel first so that you don't yank it off, then look around and make sure that you're applying force to the snorkel in a way that won't damage anything around it, but if done carefully it's quite easy to break it off. As long as you get the other bolts out first, there are still plenty of mounts left to reinstall the snorkel if you need to reinstall the OEM intake for any reason.
I will also note that the new intake sounds a bit odd at startup and at certain throttle positions, due (I think) to the sound of the intake reverberating inside the plastic of the bumper/inner fender cover. I am strongly considering converting it to an SRI by removing the lower section and putting a shorter filter on; I realize this will negate the benefits of a cold air intake, but it might be worth it... I haven't decided yet whether the odd quality of the sound under certain conditions annoys me enough to do that.
That being said: holy hell what a difference in performance, throttle response, and turbo lag. Truly amazing degree of improvement overall; my UG reports intake temps are average ~80F lower than engine temp now, where before the install my OEM intake temp was usually tracking around 45-50F under engine temp, so this provided a distinctly measurable improvement. Plus you can finally hear the BPV (I'm in CA so I can't legally install a BOV) which makes me super happy :)

On the Pierce buttbar install, I did raise the rear a bit but I did not bother removing the wheels; as others have mentioned before, if you get the bar attached loosely (like finger tight, before the Nylock threads catch) on one side, then you'll be able to get the other side in with just a bit of attention and a very minimal degree of swearing and effort to pre-load the bar. It's not easy exactly, but if you don't want to take the wheels off, I can confirm that it is not necessary so long as you can deal with a little extra PITA and pay attention to getting the upper washers in particular aligned correctly.
I will further note that it's probably important to take Pierce's recommendation of 35ft-lbs torque on the nuts seriously. I did the main bolt-on with my regular socket wrench and got the nuts good and tight and then broke out my torque wrench and was actually quite surprised as to how much more tightening was required before I got to 35, so never make the mistake of thinking that tight is actually tight enough.

Overall a pretty simple install - took about 3 hours total to install both components (including reprogramming my auto up/down driver's window and my sunroof after the battery disconnection). The CAI gave me a startling difference in response and performance (not to mention sound), and the Pierce torsion bar almost entirely fixes the OEM "nervous" butt... I might add one of Pierce's internal braces later (that mounts inside to the cargo retention points) just to stiffen it up further, but as of now, super happy.

On to the Konis showing up today...
 

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People still buying injen & aem intakes?!?!?! :(
 

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Too easy to remove the oem intake components to have to break them.

The sound is due to cold start. This happens in all open filter element intakes for the car. Most of that can be tuned out.

Do not compare IAT to ECT but rather compare them to ambient under the same conditions. The air entering the filter at speed is a few degrees at most warmer in SRI configuration vs CAI configuration. Actually cooler in oem configuration. You'll be lucky to see 1.8°F variation in IAT from one to the other in apples to apples testing at speed. Now if in stop n go or on dyno you may see a larger variation in IAT between various setups. Car is actually quicker from a power to weight standpoint in SRI form.

All intakes are not created equal is why not as many buy the smaller intakes. Injen and AEM intakes tend to make less power, have less filter service life, and cost more than some of the better options from vendors.
 

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Too easy to remove the oem intake components to have to break them.

The sound is due to cold start. This happens in all open filter element intakes for the car. Most of that can be tuned out.

Do not compare IAT to ECT but rather compare them to ambient under the same conditions. The air entering the filter at speed is a few degrees at most warmer in SRI configuration vs CAI configuration. Actually cooler in oem configuration. You'll be lucky to see 1.8°F variation in IAT from one to the other in apples to apples testing at speed. Now if in stop n go or on dyno you may see a larger variation in IAT between various setups. Car is actually quicker from a power to weight standpoint in SRI form.

All intakes are not created equal is why not as many buy the smaller intakes. Injen and AEM intakes tend to make less power, have less filter service life, and cost more than some of the better options from vendors.
That makes sense; I'm usually in stop and go, more or less, so likely why I saw such a big drop in IAT.
As for my selection of AEM, eh... One of the few I found with a CARB exemption that applied, and the time I save in not swapping back to OEM every two years for emissions is worth more to me than the additional cost of the AEM over other options.
 
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Slapped a "carb" sticker on my 2011 jcw & 2016 vt, got pulled over plenty of times with popped hood, & they saw my massive intakes & filters, & never bothered to confirm that it was actually a Golf R carb aem sticker my friend gave to me when he parted ways with his car lolll
 

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Slapped a "carb" sticker on my 2011 jcw & 2016 vt, got pulled over plenty of times with popped hood, & they saw my massive intakes & filters, & never bothered to confirm that it was actually a Golf R carb aem sticker my friend gave to me when he parted ways with his car lolll
Lol! Yeah I'd be lying if I said I hadn't considered something like that, but I pick my battles... The more I have that's CA-legit, the less likely I am to be hassled about what isn't. If that means paying a hundred bucks more for an intake that comes with a little sticker, so be it.
 

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i live here in MA, aka little california i can't wait for that shit to come here x.x
 
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i live here in MA, aka little california i can't wait for that shit to come here x.x
I'm relatively new to CA, the CARB shit has been a bit of a culture shock for me... I ended up registering my last vehicle in South Dakota because I wasn't willing to put it back to stock to pass the visual inspection, let alone the actual emissions. After all that hassle though, this time I decided the hell with it, I'll keep this car as legit as possible and save myself the headache.
The more numbers check out clean, the less likely anyone is to check the trunk, so to speak...
 

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Too easy to remove the oem intake components to have to break them.

The sound is due to cold start. This happens in all open filter element intakes for the car. Most of that can be tuned out.

Do not compare IAT to ECT but rather compare them to ambient under the same conditions. The air entering the filter at speed is a few degrees at most warmer in SRI configuration vs CAI configuration. Actually cooler in oem configuration. You'll be lucky to see 1.8°F variation in IAT from one to the other in apples to apples testing at speed. Now if in stop n go or on dyno you may see a larger variation in IAT between various setups. Car is actually quicker from a power to weight standpoint in SRI form.

All intakes are not created equal is why not as many buy the smaller intakes. Injen and AEM intakes tend to make less power, have less filter service life, and cost more than some of the better options from vendors.
I'll add that my qualifier on removal of the OEM snorkel was "without removing the bumper" since my HOA gets allllll worked up if they see large chunks of car laying around. If you have an easy way to remove the top front snorkel bolt (the one behind the headlight) without removing the bumper, hell please post that somewhere... it's too late for me, obviously, but a lot of other people have run into the same issue and, presumably, will run into it again.
Also, can you expand on your "less filter service life" statement? My experience with AEM/K&N filters has been that as long as they're properly maintained and they're not like physically rubbing on anything, they're practically immortal... but then again I've always been working with very different models of them, going on 6 and 8-cyl vehicles, so if there's something I should be watching out for on this one, I want to know about it! This kit came with the 21-2157DK filter, and I was looking at replacing it, if I convert to SRI, with the 21-202DK, but I'm open to suggestions on that if there's a markedly better dry filter out there.
 

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I'll add that my qualifier on removal of the OEM snorkel was "without removing the bumper" since my HOA gets allllll worked up if they see large chunks of car laying around. If you have an easy way to remove the top front snorkel bolt (the one behind the headlight) without removing the bumper, hell please post that somewhere... it's too late for me, obviously, but a lot of other people have run into the same issue and, presumably, will run into it again.
Also, can you expand on your "less filter service life" statement? My experience with AEM/K&N filters has been that as long as they're properly maintained and they're not like physically rubbing on anything, they're practically immortal... but then again I've always been working with very different models of them, going on 6 and 8-cyl vehicles, so if there's something I should be watching out for on this one, I want to know about it! This kit came with the 21-2157DK filter, and I was looking at replacing it, if I convert to SRI, with the 21-202DK, but I'm open to suggestions on that if there's a markedly better dry filter out there.
If you had to remove all of the oem intake components it can be done without bumper removal but it will be a PITA and I have done it. Removing the bumper is a painless 15 minute process to remove the intake pieces behind the bumper for any CAI installation. Less than that if you do partial removal. If the HOA said anything during the 30-40 minute process of the installation and removal I'd move. But like I mentioned earlier SRI form will be better regardless so all of this is pointless unless you want to remove all the oem pieces to further help power to weight ratio.

By less filter service life I mostly mean filter size in terms of surface area. The larger the surface area the longer the service life, the more power it can make, and can maintain power gains longer(directly relates to the two). The intake kits I make for veloster or veloster turbo use the largest AEM dry flow filter available with a 6" outlet. The filter you use will literally fit inside of this filter(I've actually done this) and has far less surface area/service life/power potential.

Keep in mind once you change anything with the carb approved intakes it voids the certification therefore you may as well have a better intake on the car anyway that's not carb approved. Which here again is cheaper and takes all of 10 minutes to swap out back to stock for any smog/emissions/inspection needed.

2019+ 2.0L veloster intake
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13-17 VT intake
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If you had to remove all of the oem intake components it can be done without bumper removal but it will be a PITA and I have done it. Removing the bumper is a painless 15 minute process to remove the intake pieces behind the bumper for any CAI installation. Less than that if you do partial removal. If the HOA said anything during the 30-40 minute process of the installation and removal I'd move. But like I mentioned earlier SRI form will be better regardless so all of this is pointless unless you want to remove all the oem pieces to further help power to weight ratio.

By less filter service life I mostly mean filter size in terms of surface area. The larger the surface area the longer the service life, the more power it can make, and can maintain power gains longer(directly relates to the two). The intake kits I make for veloster or veloster turbo use the largest AEM dry flow filter available with a 6" outlet. The filter you use will literally fit inside of this filter(I've actually done this) and has far less surface area/service life/power potential.

Keep in mind once you change anything with the carb approved intakes it voids the certification therefore you may as well have a better intake on the car anyway that's not carb approved. Which here again is cheaper and takes all of 10 minutes to swap out back to stock for any smog/emissions/inspection needed.

2019+ 2.0L veloster intake


13-17 VT intake
Damn... nice! Thanks for the info.
Yeah my HOA is a bit... adamant. Last time I was working on my truck I had the grille and headlight buckets removed to install a new grille and one-piece headlights, was out for all of (maybe) 2 hours and had the cops show up halfway through and give me a "warning" (though it's still unclear as to which particular CA code I was theoretically violating). Sooooo now I'm super paranoid about it.
 
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wow... i also live in a HOA and if anyone tried that crap with me here there would be hell to pay (can't have unregistered/uninsured vehicles on property but you can work on em in your easement or garage). you should read your master deed / owners contract... it lists what you can and can't do in your particular HOA. in my state of MA it's a HOA matter not a civil/town matter... cops dont just show up unless the kids are being too loud on the common :rolleyes:
 

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No need to be paranoid unless breaking a rule or law. Read up on the HOA terms and laws.
 

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wow... i also live in a HOA and if anyone tried that crap with me here there would be hell to pay (can't have unregistered/uninsured vehicles on property but you can work on em in your easement or garage). you should read your master deed / owners contract... it lists what you can and can't do in your particular HOA. in my state of MA it's a HOA matter not a civil/town matter... cops dont just show up unless the kids are being too loud on the common :rolleyes:
Yeah... "non-emergency" repairs are expressly forbidden by my HOA and -according to the officer giving me the "verbal warning"- having the front of my truck taken apart rendered it "inoperable", which isn't legal. I clarified at the time that that only applied if it was inoperable for more than 24 hours and that it was actually still perfectly functional... at which point he gave me the "verbal warning" and moved on.
Goofy stuff, but then again I consider it a relatively small tradeoff for the benefits of where I live - not a huge deal overall, I just need to avoid obvious work like bumper removal (yes, I know it's easy and painless, but it looks significant).
 
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You're just really paranoid for no reason. None of this is punishable based on any law or HOA that I'm aware of.
 
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