[16VT]

I change my oil religiously every 3k miles. In fact I just changed it 1k miles ago. I was having a misfire in cylinder 1. Found out it was a fouled plug. When I change them I noticed there was oil in the cylinder. I put the new plugs in and everything thing seemed fine. No misfires. Drove about 75 miles and had some spirited runs and started seeing a lot of smoke at higher revs. I parked the car thinking it was just clearing out whatever was in there. Today when I took it out it was smoking really bad. Especially when I got on it. Also a lot of backfire. It’s not overheating or losing coolant. It’s actually running really strong. When I got home I decided to check the oil and it’s a good thing I did. It was almost nonexistent. When I checked the dipstick I could see a little oil on the end. I’m using HKS 45. The car is full bolt on plus tuned. I’ve had it fbo and tuned for almost 2 years with no issues other than a few misfires here and there. Any input would be appreciated.

 

[trdtoy]

White smoke + oil loss here seems to be oil being burnt. To barely have any on the dipstick is a good bit of loss in 1k miles if filled properly. Oil in the cylinder would probably mean damage to the piston rings. This could have been done before or after you bought the car. Even if done before the issue will get worse over time with what you have been through with the car.

From here the thing to do is a compression and leak down test. Then check the coolant for hydrocarbons just in case as well.

 

[The_Essentials]

Could also be a leaky turbo. It might still be spinning nicely, but dumping oil into the intake. You could pop off your diverter valve and check if there's excess oil in there

 

[16VT]

Could also be a leaky turbo. It might still be spinning nicely, but dumping oil into the intake. You could pop off your diverter valve and check if there's excess oil in there

Would I still get full boost with a leaky turbo? I did just change the PCV valve. It was bad. I was hoping that was the case but the problem still exists. It’s running really rough now. But when it first started I did a few hard pulls to see if it would clear up and it ran strong.

 

[The_Essentials]

Would I still get full boost with a leaky turbo? I did just change the PCV valve. It was bad. I was hoping that was the case but the problem still exists. It’s running really rough now. But when it first started I did a few hard pulls to see if it would clear up and it ran strong.

If the turbo is leaking oil around the bearings internally, you don't usually lose pressure. As a matter of fact, sometimes the pressure can re-seal the leak, and it's only under vacuum that it seeps oil into the intake. Worth a look at any of the rubber charge piping to see if there's excessive oil residue. Some oil is expected if you don't have a catch can, but if there's enough to pool and puddle, then there's a leak somewhere in your turbo

 

[16VT]

Ok thanks. I will look into that on my day off.

 

[16VT]

Well. I started it up and drove it a little today to see if the smoke cleared up from changing the pcv valve. I babied it. It didn’t overheat but still smoking. Also got a new code. P0236. Hopefully I can take it to the shop this weekend.

 

[The_Essentials]

P0236 AFAIK means that the data coming from the boost sensor at the turbo does not match what the MAP sensor on the intake manifold is saying. Boost code, white smoke, rapid oil consumption. The part that contains all three of these things is the turbo. The white smoke could be from coolant running through the turbo. I would stop driving the car if possible until you are able to work on it yourself or have it towed to a shop. What you really REALLY do not want is the turbo to grenade itself and shred your catalytic converter. better to bite the bullet and buy a used turbo for ~500 than have to pay for a turbo AND a new cat for 600+.

I'm not positive that it's the turbo. It's still worth taking it to a shop and having them diagnose it if you're unable to check the turbo yourself.

If you do want to check it yourself, the easiest way is to remove the intake and inlet pipe. That should get you access under the car so you can get your hands on the impeller/turbine. Check it for excessive play, and check the housing that you can get to for any signs of damage. The impeller ideally should not move in or out more than a very small amount, and there should be no radial play whatsoever. Check the inside of the housing for oil or coolant. A stock turbo on this car should, at most, have a thin residue of oil from the PCV system. If there is any oil pooled at the bottom of the housing then there is likely some damage to the bearings inside the turbo. If there is coolant pooled there, then there is something VERY wrong with it, and you will likely have to pull the turbo for a rebuild at minimum.

 

[16VT]

Great information. Thank you. But do to my busy schedule I’m dropping it off at my local performance shop. I enjoy working on my own cars but this is going a little deep for me. My Genesis is in shop as we speak for a new starter. When it rains it pours. 😡

 

[The_Essentials]

No worries, I'm sure they'll be able to get it sorted in no time. Let us know what the cause was!

 

[16VT]

Will do. Thanks again for the info.

 

[16VT]

Ok. Dropped it off this morning. Cylinder 1 was an oily mess. Along with my brand new spark plugs fouled up. They still have to do a full diagnostics. The guy asked me if I wanted to upgrade anything while he had the head off. Any suggestions?

 

[The_Essentials]

For the head, walnut blast the valves to get them nice and sparkly. Unless you're planning on building a race engine or trying to break records for WHP, just making sure the valves are clean is enough. You might be able to port the intakes on the head, but that's expensive and really only necessary for high HP applications.


The only "bolt-on" that goes there would be the ARP head studs. They're worth it, especially if the heads have to come off anyway. I don't know the amount of work involved to install them, but it's a fairly common mod. I'd also replace the head gasket just in case. I buy my stuff from KDMtuners and have had good experiences with them, but most places that stock veloster mods should have them

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[16VT]

Ok. I will look into the head studs. Also the walnut blasting. He asked me about upgrading the valve springs. KDM has them. Do you think it’s worth doing?

 

[The_Essentials]

are you looking to rev over 7k RPM?

 

[16VT]

Well. I don’t plan it. But I do drive the car kinda hard sometimes and I hit the rev limiter on occasions. Just thinking a little better spring wouldn’t hurt.

 

[The_Essentials]

I personally wouldn't mess with the valvetrain unless there's a problem, or I was doing some serious work on a race specific engine. If you've got a bad spring or two, maybe. but if everything's fine I wouldn't touch it personally

 

[16VT]

Well. My mechanic just informed me that my entire engine is trashed. I need a new short block. Basically new bottom end along with pistons and everything else. Don’t know what to do. He’s telling me it’s going to be close to 10k to fix. Any advice would help. I still owe 5k on it.

 

[The_Essentials]

What does "trashed" entail? The price seems right for a new engine and install, but if there wasn't any knocking and nothing metallic in the oil that seems sus.

 

[16VT]

There was no knocking. Not sure about the oil. I’m going to get better details tomorrow. It was drivable until the spark plugs got fouled up in the cylinder because of the oil. I have to find out what the cause was because it only had 80k miles. It was tuned by Tork. But like a year and a half ago. I kinda don’t want to put a used engine in it. Should I look into getting an engine upgrade from Tork or KDM tuners?