Next is to remove the upper console portion. There are a couple DIYs on this but it is held in entirely with clips. Start at the back of the console in the storage bin and gently and gradually use the flat head to pop the clips. Once you reach the shifter it self the tork from pulling up on the rear end will pop the rest of the clips all the way into the front storage bin. Gently remove.

After this part is out your gonna need your philips head to remove 4 screws holding the front and rear sections of the console together as well as to the car itself.

Once you've removed these screws simple pull out the rear section followed by the front section which is what were trying to get at in the first place.

Finally you have to remove the console mount which covers the rear of the shifter housing and makes it impossible to effectively remove the bolts.

Now you can get at the shifter assembly.

 

Unlike other shifters you don't have to remove the shifter it self from the housing but you do have to remove that housing. First order of business is to remove the pins that attach the shifter cables, which I did before removing the shifter housing BUT I found out was easier to do if you removed the housing first. One clip attaches to the (no idea what its called) arm on the passenger side of the housing and the other holds the base of the shifter onto the cable and can be accessed by the drivers side or from the top if you unbolt the housing and turn it on it's side. I found that it was easier to just remove the second clip holding the shifter base when it came time to replace the housing.

Whichever way you do these two steps you are going to need a 12mm socket (long is better) to remove the shifter housing.

Next you need to unclip the shifter cables from the housing. you can either use a flat head or just your finger and pull back (towards the rear seats) the rounded tab at the top of the clip. As you pull back just pull up and they will pop off.

Now you can remove the housing.

Now you can see the differences in the Tork over stock. Left is the Tork shifter.

 

Now your ready to put in your Tork Short Shifter Assembly. First, reconnect the clips that hold the ends of the shifter cables to the shifter. You'll have much better access with the housing unbolted.

Provided are 4 washers which, from what I could figure, fit nicely into the holes in the base of the Tork Shifter housing. Note the stock unit has a grommet on both sides. Unless I was missing parts the Tork unit just had these 4 that went underneath to raise the housing. I used some grease to help hold the washers in place but if you don't just be careful because they don't stay in place on their own.

Next push the shifter cable clips back into place on the front of the housing. You wont need to pull back... just line up and push down.

put your 12mm bolts back in and loosely tighten. I would HIGHLY recommend testing the setup out at this point. you can replace the shifter boot, reverse lock out and knob without the console in and take it for a test drive. This is where I ran into an issue that I believe is just because I put a 13' model shifter assembly onto a 14'.

Because of how much further down the shifter extends into the housing, the plastic shield around the shifter cable was binding on the housing when in gears 2-4-6. I couldn't figure out another solution so I used my dremmel to shave down a small channel which did the trick with no binding.

 

If all is well then you just need to tighten and replace everything. Tighten the 4 12mm bolts holding down the shifter housing. Replace the console mount. replace the front lower console, followed by the rear and use the 4 screws to put them back together. Next, starting at the front of the console, replace the upper console. Its just clips so be gentle and message it back in place working your way back to the storage bin. Next replace the 10mm bolts at the base of the storage bin, followed by the 4 screws at the rear of the console (rear seats) and the 2 screw clips at the front.

Finally your going to replace the shift boot assembly and shift knob. Here was another area where I had a minor issue. I tried to put the knob and lock out from my 14' on the 13' model shifter. Everything fit but I couldn't get the knob all the way tight or the reverse lockout wouldn't work. I ended up just switching to the 13' knob and lock out (which is ugly) and it works fine.

That's it! Unless you screwed something up... or I did. You'll be enjoying the new feel of the shifter.

 

Nice write up man.

 

cool deal thanks man. If your doing a B&M or cosmo its alot more difficult to install. I suggest watching the SFR short shift install video to geta very vague how to. Sfr does not go into how to remove the black clip and the metal retaining clip which is a bitch!!!

This write up covers the rest of the install and is full of great info. Well done!