it all voids warranty, return your wife's $1000 dollars.

now, if you're willing to void that specific part then intake and exhaust should be the two. now if you're feeling dangerous and brave the ecu tune should be the main mod.

 

I'm ordering a 3.5" SAI, FMIC, and resonator delete from turbosocks with the discount "july14" it's about $620. That would leave you $380 to order a down pipe, then you can save up again for a tune .

 

If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with a Tork Stage 1 tune first and add all basic bolt-ons later. Short ram or cold air intake would be my last mod. An ecu tune would be the biggest difference regardless, ecu tune >>>> all basic bolt-ons w/o tune.

 

Tune is the best bang for the buck. It would be great if you could attend an event and get a dyno too!

 

First purchase should be a rear torsion bar from Pierce Motorsports to settle the bouncy ass.

 

^+ It's true. You won't get more hp, but any additional hp you do add will be better managed by that jumpy rear end.

 

Intake , downpipe , cat back then tune .... Let it breathe better in and out , remove restrictions choking it off and then have the boost turned up w a tune

 

What do you want from the car? Faster around turns, out of the hole, higher top speed, louder and sounds faster, better track times? My advice would be to do a couple local autox events or an HPDE and then decide where the car needs improvements. Dollar for Dollar these will be the biggest difference in how fast you are, will not void any warranty and what you learn will transfer over to any car you ever drive.

 

Do like the others have said and get a tune.

The bolt-ons are not necessary for added engine performance and yield little to no increased performance.

The stock configuration on the VT is very adequate to allow higher performance (like you are talking about)

and even some have indicated this exact sentiment regarding the intake system.

The stock exhaust has been identified by many enthusiasts as being on the upper echelon of exhaust systems

and any modifications have mainly been concerned with sound.

***

 

i guess he spent his money. after dealing with forced induction cars for the past 15 years, i did the total opposite this time. i went with suspension and handling first. this car in stock form feels like it will flip over if the wind blows just right.
tork collars
springs/koni yellows (coilovers if you like)
strut bar
rear torsion
wider wheels
this was/is my initial mod list i would suggest to anyone.(wheels are optional. spacers could be an alternate.)

 

I've kind of jumped around...I did intake first, then tork pipe, then strut bar, then rigid collars, next im doing the rear torsion bar, then downpipe. Not sure after that

 

Suspension and handling is a must on this car. You're going to feel the difference and the car is a'lot more fun to drive.

 

My signature of mods are in the order they were done. 1st to most recent. noticed how i didn't say last?

 

The last 3 cars I bought new as DD's have maintained all factory parts but have had their ECU's tuned. By far the most performance gain from a modification you'll see in any TC car where stock ECU Flashing is possible.

I would have already had the car flashed if

A. A local tuning option was available
B. A cable/SW/laptop tuning option was available

Until then I'll live lol