First ,I would have stayed far away from the amp wiring and start in the trunk at the end of the wires.....well so you used the rear speaker wires/ sub wires "they are the same" as your high level input which you then connected to a convertor. both the reds and both the blacks that go to the stock sub woofer- then sent rcas to the aftermarket amp- if you did this you did it correctly. other than that ..I did not use an antenna wire.. as my rca convertor was power sensing which provides the remote for the amps. I also hooked up a kill switch for safety on the dashboard. if it comes down to it.you could hook in a splitter and make the 2 inputs your amp wants- but that would be half ass.

 

So you split the rear speaker channels and terminated them with rca connectors for the amp?

I dont think you did any research on how that actually works. No mention of a remote line for the amp which is what turns it on. Have lights on amp?

Ill look up a wiring diagram here in a min

 

He said ACC wire for my antenna wire. I am assuming he meant the remote line.

 

I kind of understand what you are talking except where you "tapped into the rear positve and negative left and right speaker wires at the stock amp". If I am understanding this right, you are using that for signal input. As well as the RCA's. those are just signal input. it is either or with those.

"These leads are input leads for use with head units not equipped with preamp outputs. When not using the RCA Line Input connectors, you should connect these wires to the speaker output leads of your head unit."....OR in your case from the stock amp. Check for me and see on the amp you bought, what it says where you connected these wires. IF it says "speaker level input" or "speaker input leads". If it does it should look like a clip on connector not RCA. IF you are using that there should be no RCA . UNless there is an amp out there that has RCA for that connector which I doubt. The RCA should only be used as an input from when connecting from an output behind a head unit. Unless the amp has an output RCA source then MAYBE you can do it that way. But again, I doubt it would have anything like that. IN that case just use the tapped wires only.

You should have sound coming from your rear speakers regardless if the amp is working or not. If they are not working, you might have not used that "3M red connector" correctly. I have no clue what that is. I honestly just get a butt connector and use those when splicing but everybody has their own way of splicing. With the butt connector just insert the wire coming from the amp in one side of the butt connector and on the other side twist both wires from the other side of the wire and the wire that goes into the amp together and slide that in the other side of the butt connector. I don't know if that makes since but it is a best way I can do it to make it look good.

Take pics of the amp with the side where the rca and all that goes and how you used those "3M red connectors". that will be more helpfull.

 

OMG tell me you didnt use RCA soldered to your speaker level stock wires....they are totally different and will blow your amps inputs. you need a convertor. BTW all crimp connectors suck ass. you cant beat a cut -strip- splice -heatshrink method.

 

he mentioned using the ACC wire... which must have been a bitch to locate.

 

I think this guy did what you are trying to do..

http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/...ronics/933-help-wire-new-amp-off-existing-speaker-through-inline-converter.html

Its kind of a ghetto rig to do this without a preamp out from the head, but it can be made to work..

 

Ok, sorry for the vague first post. I was in a rush and im not entirely familiar with the "audio lingo".

Anyways, Here is the post that I followed, except for the remote level converter. 12" sub and amp install in Tech

The difference in what I did vs. this post is that the amp is installed in the trunk, and used a bolt in the trunk as my ground. I used the rear speaker wires, left and right, positive and negative, instead of the front speaker wires like the guy in the post did.

The ACC wire i am refering to is the remote turn on wire. I picked that up from what is called the ACC wire on the stock amp just as the guy in the post did.

I installed this same system in my S-10 a few times, and had no problems using an aftermarket head unit. This was the first time wireing up subs and amp without touching the head unit.

The 3M Red Connectors are scotchlock connectors used by the guy in the post. These are how I "tapped" into the rear speaker wires from the stock amp.

Now, these rear speaker wires that I used to tap have RCA plugs sautered to the end of them, which was the only thing I had. I had to cut them off of some existing wire that I was unable to use, and sautered them to the speaker input wires that I ran to my aftermarket amp. This gave me the signal to my amp. I ran signal output wires to the subs, both positive and negative as usual, power wire and ground hooked up, as well as the remote turn on wire.

Amp power light is on and remains on when I plug in both RCA plugs. However, when I plug in both RCA inputs, it kills the subwoofers and ALL rear speakers. I unplug one RCA input and nothing changes. I unplug both and the rear speakers come back. If I plug in just one RCA input, subs kick on just fine and no problems. Only problem is when both RCA inputs are pluged in.

I hope this post clarifies....

 

Start by undoing everything you did with your stock amp. Then go buy this online PAC SOEM-T (soemt) Premium 120W, 2-Channel Adjustable Line Out
then pull off the rear panel and find the white connector near the sub, leave enough room and cut it off. splice in the line convertor on the red and black wires in this picture

after that you hook up a little ground wire on the PAC just above the sub "there is a nice bolt there".

the RCAs finally are attached to the amplifier and the remote also as it is provided from the PAC convertor."no need to use any ACC wire". If your single power wire from the battery is run correct and your ground wire attached to the cargo bolt under the carpet "sand it to bare metal"...... you are done enjoy the BOOM.

 

Start by undoing everything you did with your stock amp. Then go buy this online PAC SOEM-T (soemt) Premium 120W, 2-Channel Adjustable Line Out
then pull off the rear panel and find the white connector near the sub, leave enough room and cut it off. splice in the line convertor on the red and black wires in this picture View attachment 1768
after that you hook up a little ground wire on the PAC just above the sub "there is a nice bolt there".
View attachment 1769
the RCAs finally are attached to the amplifier and the remote also as it is provided from the PAC convertor."no need to use any ACC wire". If your single power wire from the battery is run correct and your ground wire attached to the cargo bolt under the carpet "sand it to bare metal"...... you are done enjoy the BOOM.

Sorry to bring this post back from the Dead. I recently bought a 2014 VT and want to put my old subs and aftermarket amp into it. I am interested in learning more about using the PAC SOEM-T unit to tap my aftermarket AMP along side the factory OEM amp. After reviewing other threads on a few different Veloster forums, I have concluded that I can tap my remote (turn on wire) to the ACC wire #7 on connector A? Does anyone know which wires I use to tap the PAC into for BASS only? Would that be into wires attached to the Connector C?

 

WOW, so much simpler............. would have saved me about 8 hours of pulling my hair out.......................................

 

After doing a few amps radio and sub installs you will get the lingo and the hang of all this. it is actually simple.

All of my friends that asked if I could hook anything up, I taught them to do it. Of course hands on and everything nothing through a post. You know what they say about the man and the fish and all that feeding and teaching that man lol

 

I pulled out my hair in frustration after i read what you did..... let me know if you need any more help just PM me.

 

Going back to your opening post I'd say that the output of the stock amp (+/- spkr wires) are likely not common ground. That is the - spkr wire is not ground and should not be connected to ground, which you are likely doing at the RCA connection to your amp.

How is your amp. configured? Are you running a dual VC sub, or a single VC sub with the amp bridged for mono? I can think of one way you could end up with two inputs cancelling out when run into a bridged amp.

Also, if I understand correctly you are taking the rear full range spkr signals to drive the sub amp? If so, how do you know those spkrs are even getting low bass signal? There is a good possibility, since the car comes with a sub, that there is a crossover that prevents the full range spkrs from having to deal with the low lows.

If it were me I'd just take the spkr signal off the sub that is there (already filtered and ready to go) run it to a spkr to line converter and into your amp.

 

The stock sub has its own channel separate from the rear speakers. I think a lot of people seem to assume it is part of the rear speaker channels. It is not. They are not tied into each other in any way.

Got the schematics from the etm section of the hyundai service website and then made my own diagram...

My diagram for when I tackle my own installation project. http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b518/surfmenace/AMP_zpsd018f35f.jpg

Hyundai website http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b518/surfmenace/AMPDIAGRAM_zps3818714e.jpg

 

Dual voice coil factory subs huh. Is that normal for factory subs?

btw does anyone know the ohm rating on it and how many wattage's it is able to handle and how many wattage's it is getting from the amp?

 

dunno how normal it is, but it does have its benefits when it comes to adding subs.

 

what size is the stock sub? how many watts does the stock amp send to it?

 

I second this question of how many watts does the stock amp send to it. I think its a 8" sub though.

 

Some are saying its better still to add new subs/amp to rear channels because it would most likely be full range that your new amp could then crossover. Honestly...I have no idea which way is best because Ive never added to a factory system but plan to with this car.

 

So you mean just but a 5 channel amp and replace the factory amp for better clarity between the highs and lows? And skip the factory sub and buy your own sub/box for the new 5 channel amp?

 

They are not on the same channel. You can see that in the diagram I posted BUT...it seems most people are preferring to tap the rear speaker channel because they think there is no stock crossover there. That way they can use their own crossover on their new amp.

Personally...I have no idea how Im gonna tackle this job. Ive done stereo systems before but Ive never added to a factory system.

 

What exactly do you want to do?

 

Add a new sub and change front speakers with new amp to run them. the rears and stock sub can stay as they are for now.

 

I say just run your own hot wire from the battery to the amp. ground the amp somewhere near. You can then just rewire each speaker from the the factory amp to the aftermarket amp (including the sub)

I would saw an amp like this one
Alpine MRX-V60 (MRXV60) 600W RMS 5-Channel X-Power Car Amplifier

 

The stock dimension system is better than the normal stock stereo...but it needs help on all levels. highs, mids and lows if you like your music loud wiyh deep bass and clean.

 

For the Sub install i left my stock one hooked up and ran off the driver side rear speaker. Iv had no issues and good punch. Prob the best option considering running off the sub in such a high out that it will make the New sub cut out or not hit correctly.