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Intercooler pipe mod / TorKPipe : review!

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104K views 296 replies 88 participants last post by  Shagger  
#1 ·
I know people have already stated how this mod is a solid improvement ect... so I figure I would give a little bit more info.

First.. its very simple to remove/replace. Like others stated, it should take you longer to jack up the car.. then actually remove/replace the part.

For those getting stuck not being able to remove the cap on the clamp.. Just use needle nose pliers to grab/wiggle it off, or wedge a small Flathead Screwdriver under the cap and pop it off. Either will work.

Its still unknown as to WHY they would add this part. But the fact of the matter is, by replacing it.. you gain top end and over all drive-ability.


Gains come on around 3500+ RPMS.
It drastically reduces the "flat spot" during WOT which you may feel around 4000 - 5500 RPMs.
I also noticed, how SMOOTH boost comes on now.

With the 6MT version of the car. Shifting from 1st to 2nd feels much better. Less hesitation and when you punch it.. it goes.
I'm assuming it must reduce turbo spool, to some degree. Looking into the baffle, there are square edges & hollow chambers... NONE of that can be good for compressed air to be whipping past.
Also, like others have stated. The friction caused by the baffle would ALSO add to heat in the system = no good.

Here is a look inside the stock baffle :

Image


Below is a pic of the pipe installed AFTER the fact :

Image


I just left the cap off the clamp. So if I ever need to replace it with the stock baffle, I can avoid dick1ng around with the cap ;)
As for the spring clamp on the other side. Just use a pair of Channel lock pliers.. easy!

Finally, you should see a boost in MPG per tank... I'm seeing about 2+

TorkMe sells a nice Stainless pipe which you can get from this thread : http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/tork-motorsports/4142-you-want-power-upgrade-under-30-00-a.html

OR another option is an Aluminum version ( which I installed ) here : Cxracing 2" OD Straight Aluminum Joiner Pipe for Intecooler Turbo 5" Long | eBay


Price per HP! This one is a MUST. In fact, after sending back my canned tune. Then installing this.. I don't miss the canned tune AT ALL :)
 
#3 ·
Nice write up Bro!!! +1 I think you pretty much hit it on the nose. Even with the MPG note
 
#5 ·
Not sure what you're talking about JGunz, but my MPG has gone down by about 2. Would WOT have anything to do with that?! :crazy:
 
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#6 · (Edited)
This literally is the cheapest mod for the amount of bang you get, I've ever purchased. It reminds me of removing the stock up pipe on the WRX with a free flow one.. ( stock those have a cat in them ) But for about 100 bucks cheaper and WAY easier of an install!

Verified : 4th gear pulls RIGHT up to 6500 with increasing speed. I didn't want to shift :( it still wanted to GO! lol
 
#7 ·
.. Its still unknown as to WHY they would add this part. But the fact of the matter is, by replacing it.. you gain top end and over all drive-ability.
Gains come on around 3500+ RPMS.
It drastically reduces the "flat spot" during WOT which you may feel around 4000 - 5500 RPMs.
I also noticed, how SMOOTH boost comes on now.

With the 6MT version of the car. Shifting from 1st to 2nd feels much better. Less hesitation and when you punch it.. it goes.
I'm assuming it must reduce turbo spool, to some degree. Looking into the baffle, there are square edges & hollow chambers... NONE of that can be good for compressed air to be whipping past.
.. Finally, you should see a boost in MPG per tank... I'm seeing about 2+
Price per HP! This one is a MUST. In fact, after sending back my canned tune. Then installing this.. I don't miss the canned tune AT ALL :)
I have to ask .. is this improvement going to last, or is the car going to relearn this mod and compensate for it in a few 100 miles? I ask because every mod I've attempted to try and remove the pulsing seem to work for a week or so and then return.
 
#8 ·
I cant wait to free up 25 bucks to do this, or go the 16 dollar ebay route. Id prefer to support one of our own but im also itching to finally get some performance gains on my girl. and the way everything is going right now Im budgeting down to the dollar
 
#11 ·
The baffle is chambered.. and has rough square edges.. that's just ASKING for turbulence and hesitation.

I think this is a perm fix. I've put on 100+ miles, and its getting better. If you look at the thread TorkMe put up.. a week later he re-ran his dyno and his number's were even HIGHER. So as the car's adapting to the new airflow.. its actually making more power. According to his dyno.

Personally.. I've never seen a baffle like this in a tube going to an intercooler. You always want smooth .. mandrel bent pipes if possible.

Definitely not something like this.. again, no IDEA what they were thinking.
 
#13 ·
When I talked to some of the mechanical engineers where I work who are experienced with turbo systems they said they had seen it before and normally it is to remove noise. Typical engineering issue, you have a number to meet (that the managers came up with), and if you are really close but don't quite make it you have to stick some stupid little thing (this this resonator) on the system to get that last little 2% of performance (or noise reduction) needed to meet the goal. Then you can check the box that says "Is it at least this quiet".
 
#16 ·
This is a very valid point. Dealer by dealer basis id say. Be smart and keep yours. No your turbo won't break BECAUSE of it. But your dealer surely could weasel them selves out of paying for any fix.

The law states that they have to prove it was caused by the aftermarket part. However there is no "burden of proof". Which means the the absence of evidence doesn't mean it ain't the absence of a verdict. "We aren't sure that's the issue just means "it could be the issue"
 
#15 ·
turbo won't be breaking b/c of this pipe... if anything it will help the turbo by reducing compressor surge. the pipe will the the least of your worries b/c something else would've destroyed your turbo. plus it wouldn't be hard to just put the old one back on
 
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#18 ·
I just installed this in my car. I had the battery disconnected for while so the computer would reset. Initially it was surging during pulls but after a few it smoothed out. I am agreeing with the OP, the flat spot around 5k is nearly gone. The only mods I have are removals of the resonator before and inside of the air box as well as a kn drop in filter.
 
#19 ·
Is there any instructions or pictures from a up higher place?
 
#22 ·
Oh okay just did not even know where to look haha thanks
 
#24 ·
Hmm that's weird.. Everyone else, including me as had fantastic luck.. Idk what could cause this? Maybe if they weren't tight enough and it's leaking?
 
#27 ·
4th day having this part in... And it's gotten noticeably better. 2nd barley holds the road and 3rd into 4th is a monster!
 
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#32 ·
After having the new pipe on for a few days I have noticed a huge difference.. Usually on the highway when flooring in 3rd it seems like it doesn't give full power.. Now it delivers constant steady power with no type of surging.. I couldn't be happier..
 
#33 ·
Yep! Not sure if you tested yet. But 2nd is a beast now too! without the surging.. around 4k rpms, my car feels like its clawing at the pavement LOL and that 6k SHIFT into 3rd is fantastic! No drop or loss of power!
 
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#35 ·
Even though it is obvious I took a photo while I was under my car the other day and circled in red where this part goes. FYI the one I have installed is not the "Official" version, but it still goes in the same spot.
 
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#37 ·
It takes longer to jack up one side of the car then the installation.Onced jacked up,please use a jack stand be safe. great 2nd gear pull. Yea,one of the easier upgrades to do.
Worth every penny.
 
#40 ·
Pretty sure 2"